Lot 32 Ineichen – F.P.Journe Octa Chrono

In primo piano

Today I want to present Ineichen Auctioneers, an important auction house founded in Zurich in 1973 by Peter A. Ineichen, who was mostly interested in the history of chronometry and began to specialize in watches and clocks. As the oldest auction house with a focus on watches in Switzerland, Ineichen Auctioneers has established itself as an important player in the field, both domestically and internationally.

On December 3, 14.00 CET don’t miss their new auction, Complications: Dates & Calendars

As you see very interesting and very rare watches on my site today I want to present Lot. 32, an extremely attractive, highly collectible and very rare limited-edition chronograph wristwatch of the Swiss watch brand F. P. Journe Invenit et Fecit, founded in 1999 by the French watchmaker François-Paul Journe.

The Octa Chronographe Ruthénium Limited Edition No. 33/99-02C is a very rare and attractive purchase for the collector and F. P. Journe watchmaking expertise aficionado, who will receive a beautiful, elegant, and very rare chronograph wristwatch from this famous watch brand, one of the undoubted leaders in the haute horlogerie watch market.

  • If you want to bid check out the link to Lot 32 and Ineichen Site click HERE

The unique, memorable and instantly recognisable style with an asymmetric dial layout, ruthenium finish of the dial, and first-generation movement crafted from brass with a unique ruthenium coating, which is gaining more and more interest in the collectors’ community, makes the present lot extremely notable and desirable. 

Limited edition launched in 2001–2003.

Case in platinum 950, diameter 40mm, 10.6mm thick, sapphire caseback.

Matte textured solid gold dial with dark grey ruthenium coating, silver subdials with clous de Paris guilloché pattern, fine circular groove and thin metal frames fixed by screws, blued steel hands.

Caliber 1300, thin, self-winding, mainplate and bridges in brass with dark grey ruthenium coating, gilt engravings, rotor in 22k rose gold with ‘grain d’orge’ guilloché pattern, power reserve up to 160 hours. 

Functions – hours and minutes sub-dial at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 5 o’clock, instantaneous big date at 12 o’clock, flyback chronograph with central seconds counter and 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock. F. P. Journe black leather strap, F. P. Journe platinum pin buckle.

Limited edition of 99 pieces.

F.P.Journe Octa Chrono – Lot essay

With the Ruthénium Collection, launched in 2001–2003, François-Paul Journe completed his production of watches with movements traditionally made from brass with galvanic coatings. Instead, since 2004, almost all new watches from the brand have been equipped with movements made of 18k pink gold without the coating.

Of course, solid gold movements appear more valuable and desirable, since movements of this type are a great rarity in watchmaking. Nevertheless, collectors and connoisseurs of the F. P. Journe watchmaking art are showing an increasing interest in watches with brass movements, which represent the early period of the brand. 

The Ruthénium Collection was the first limited edition collection of F. P. Journe, and is comprised of five platinum models: Tourbillon Souverain, Chronomètre à Résonance, Octa Chronographe, Octa Jour et Nuit and Octa Calendrier, each numbered and limited to 99 pieces. 

Both the gold dials and brass movements are ruthenium-coated, hence the name of the collection. This was also the first time F. P. Journe used a 40mm case, which is larger than the 38mm size the brand produced from its foundation.

The total number of F. P. Journe watches with brass movements is estimated at about 2,000 pieces, and as a rule they generate active interest at auctions. In particular, in 2021, the highly coveted F. P. Journe watches from the Ruthénium collection fetched impressive results, e. g. a Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthénium sold for 371,000CHF, and a Souverain Tourbillon Ruthénium sold for 390,000CHF at the ‘Shades of Grey’ November thematic sale of Ineichen Auctioneers in Zürich (both excluding premium). 

François-Paul Journe is one of the few watchmakers to have developed a wristwatch with its own interpretation of a classic chronograph complication. The Octa Chronographe, presented by F. P. Journe in 2001, was the second model of the Octa collection, issued after the Octa Réserve de Marche (2001). All Octa timepieces are powered by the same self-winding base caliber 1300 with a notably large (10.1mm) chronometric balance. 

This caliber was initially developed by François-Paul Journe to meet the requests of his customers preferring a self-winding watch. He conceived a slim caliber, allowing various additional complications to be installed without changing the overall thickness of the movement and ensuring the thickness of the case remained practically the same for all models in the Octa collection.

For the caliber, François-Paul Journe developed a large barrel with a 1000mm long and 0.1mm thick winding spring, which provided a power reserve of approximately 160 hours, of which 120 hours were picked, guaranteeing a chronometric rate. 

Octa Chronographe shows a unique style, in accordance with all the other complications of the master – François-Paul Journe always follows his own path.

The structure of the dial is asymmetrical, with the time indication shifted to the right, while the chronograph is given a central seconds hand with a scale along the periphery of the entire dial and a 60-minute counter at 9 o’clock. 

The chronograph mechanism occupies just 1mm of extra space, maintaining the elegant profile that is common to all models in the Octa collection with a thickness of slightly over 10mm – not much for a self-winding chronograph. 

Early Octa Chronographe watches featured the first-generation caliber 1300 made of either rhodium-coated brass or ruthenium-coated brass, as the present limited-edition model.

From 2004, the watchmaker began making the Octa movements in 18k rose gold (the second generation), marking the start of caliber 1300.2. Phillips notes, in 2007, shortly before discontinuing the Octa Chronographe, the 3rd generation caliber 1300.3 being introduced by the brand, again made of 18k pink gold but equipped with unidirectional winding.

When the Octa was first launched in 2001, its automatic winding mechanism was designed to be bidirectional, which, as it turned out, was less effective than unidirectional winding if the wearer favoured an inactive lifestyle. 

The production of the Octa Chronographe watch ceased in 2008, the brand replacing it with the Centigraphe Souverain chronograph. A secondary market analysis allows us to conclude that the production of this reference was significantly smaller compared to other so-called ‘small complications’ of the Octa collection, which promises good prospects for this particular model, especially in its historically important limited-edition ruthenium execution.

Octa Chronographe Ruthénium Limited Edition No. 33/99-02C – Specifications

CasePolished platinum case 950/1000 chronograph pushers at 2 & 4 o’clock, sapphire caseback
StrapOriginal black Alligator strap, with a original platinum pin buckle
DialRuthenium coated dial, silvered & engine turned sub-dials, silvered seconds track, big date at 12 o’clock, 60 seconds & 60 minute counters, time display & small seconds on the right side, blued hands
MovementRuthenium coated automatic movement, engine turned 22k white gold rotor, chronograph function
Cal.1300
Case No.33/99-02Z
D=40mm

Christie’s a watches wonderland in new York – vintage and contemporary timepieces

In primo piano

Following the success of the auction held in New York this past June, which totalled US$21,743,070, the autumn/winter season promises to excite with Christie’s New York Important Watches on December 8th. This will be a Live Auction comprising 117 lots, featuring fine vintage and modern horological masterpieces from the world’s most reputable and desirable brands.

Vintage highlights from Patek Philippe include a very rare and attractive 18k rose gold wristwatch with a captivating cloisonné enamel dial featuring a Viking longship, manufactured in 1950, and an extraordinarily rare 18k yellow gold Nautilus Ref. 3700 with a diamond-set bezel from 1980.

Other classic treasures include an attractive 18k gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 6265 along with one of the rarest sport watches produced by Tudor, the “Big Crown” Reference 7924, which was in production for one year only between 1958 and 1959.

More modern timepieces include a number of Patek Philippe desirable green dial references: the striking grande complication 5270P-014 and the Nautilus 5711-014.

There will also be a limited-edition Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 “Alexander Zverev” as well as a Vacheron Constantin platinum minute repeating wristwatch, which was produced in a limited edition of only 10 examples.

Moreover, the sale will present a Single Owner collection of highly desirable Patek Philippe references retailed by Tiffany & Co. as well as a selection of very attractive and rare skeleton, gem and diamond-set, or hardstone dial timepieces.

Let’s see these incredible timepieces:

Audemars Piguet Ref. 26591TI.OO.1252TI.02, Royal Oak

Lot 113 – Audemars Piguet Ref. 26591TI.OO.1252TI.02, Royal Oak. A very fine and extremely rare titanium minute repeater supersonnerie wristwatch, limited to 35 examples.


Audemars Piguet reference 26591TI is one of the most impressive and rare timepieces from the contemporary Royal Oak family. Released without fanfare in 2021 in only 35 examples, this model of the iconic Royal Oak has been crafted in a large 42mm case with a beautiful salmon tapisserie dial.

With its large case and bracelet, one would expect a heavy presence on the wrist.

However, weighing in at a mere 124 grams thanks to its titanium construction, it is barely noticeable to the wearer. Furthermore, a minute repeating supersonnerie has been integrated in the timepiece, with the titanium case giving the complication’s chime a unique tonal resonance.

(Est: US$350,000-550,000)

Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A-001, Nautilus

Lot 106 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A-001, Nautilus. A very rare steel travel time flyback chronograph bracelet watch with date and day/night indicators, signed and retailed by Tiffany & Co..
Introduced in 1976, the design of the Patek Philippe Nautilus was inspired by a ship’s portholes. The original reference 3700 was constructed with a monobloc case, replicating the way portholes were opened on vessels.

The present lot, reference 5990/1A-001, is a contemporary wristwatch dating to 2018. It is one of the most functional watches from the Nautilus line, and greatly favoured by collectors.

The watch features a travel time function with disguised pushers that are found in the left “ear” of the case. The pushers adjust a second time zone hand that can be jumped forwards and backwards by the hour. An ingenious touch: When a second time zone is not necessary, that hand can be discreetly tucked out of sight behind the primary hour hand.

The watch also features day/night indicators to correspond with the hands. As if that were not enough, Patek Philippe continues to uphold their spot as a premier manufacturer by adding a flyback chronograph and date complication to the already impressive timepiece.

The case of this complicated wristwatch measures in at 40.5mm and is crafted from steel, the favourite of collectors, for ultimate durability and comfort. Adding to the rarity and desirability of this timepiece is the “Tiffany & Co.” signature, subtly placed near the 6 o’clock register.

(Est: US$150,000-250,000)

Patek Philippe rare 18k gold

Lot 46 – Patek Philippe. A very fine, rare and attractive 18k rose gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial, manufactured in 1950.
Wristwatches fitted with cloisonné enamel dials take a most prominent position in terms of beauty, craftsmanship, and rarity. Produced mostly in the 1940s and 50s, Patek Philippe made an exceedingly small number of “time only” wristwatches where highly detailed and incredibly artistic cloisonné enamel dials were fitted.

Only an extremely small number of watches were upgraded with these wonderful dials, depicting popular motifs such as a jungle, a lighthouse and sail boats, flowers, portraits, and maps.

The present dial was crafted to special order in 1950, and was, most likely, originally delivered to France, to be housed in a French-manufactured case. After World War II, this was quite common practice in alignment with the post-war economic effort. Importing foreign jewellery was prohibited in France, so many Swiss makers had their cases made in France, often after their own Swiss model.

Given these constraints, Patek Philippe worked closely with French firms such as Guillermin, providing dials and movements under the agreement that Patek Philippe standards would be upheld.

This watch was sold previously at Christie’s in 2005 and has remained well- preserved with the present consignor.

Today, most of the vintage wristwatches by Patek Philippe fitted with cloisonné enamel dials are either in the world’s most important and exclusive private collections, or permanently showcased in the firm’s museum in Geneva. Consequently, opportunities to acquire one example, especially of such beauty, have become extremely rare events in the international auction arena.

(Est: US$200,000-400,000)

Patek Philippe Ref. 3700, Nautilus

Lot 108 – Patek Philippe Ref. 3700, Nautilus. An extremely rare and attractive 18k yellow gold and diamond-set bracelet watch with date. Manufactured in 1980.


The present lot may be one of the rarest Nautilus watches to exist. Even many keen-eyed, veteran collectors have never heard of or seen reference 3700/4.

According to research, this watch is the second reference 3700/4 to ever appear at auction. In addition to the present lot’s rarity with a well- preserved case and bracelet crafted from 18k yellow gold, the bezel is factory embellished with 72 glamorous diamonds.

Typically, stones are set directly on top of the bezel, but reference 3700/4 has them placed on the outer bevel. This charming detail adds to the complexity and subtly of this seldom-seen timepiece. Between the beauty and rarity of the gold case and lustrous diamond bezel, this watch is truly a delight to behold for any serious collector.

(Est: US$230,000-330,000)

Rolex Ref. 6265, Daytona

Lot 72 – Rolex Ref. 6265, Daytona. A very fine and rare 18k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch. Manufactured in 1981.
Four-digit Rolex Daytona’s are some of the most desirable and collectible wristwatches, and reference 6265 is no exception.

The timepiece is constructed from 18k yellow gold and has a screw-down crown and pushers to ensure a water-tight seal. They also offer a sportier aesthetic. The watch has a matte black dial and gold registers that complement the 18k yellow gold case. This gold and black combination provides a striking, beautiful contrast. Another interesting and distinctive feature about Reference 6265 is the “Oyster” text below Rolex. It is in larger type and “Perpetual” is absent because the watch is manually wound. The watch case measures in at 37mm, making it more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes. However, it remains a presence due to the sporty styling and 18k yellow gold case.

(Est: US$160,000-260,000)

Tudor “Big Crown” Reference 7924

Lot 67 – Tudor “Big Crown” Reference 7924. This reference was manufactured only in 1958 and 1959.
With serial numbers ranging from 275XXX to 295XXX, reference 7924 is an exceptionally rare watch and a grail among vintage watch collectors worldwide.

Reference 7924 was Tudor’s most capable dive watch in the late 1950’s thank to its thick, robust, stainless steel case and oversized 8mm crown. Rated to 200 meters/660 feet, the 7924 was the brand’s offering alongside Rolex Reference 6538 and Reference 5510.

In fact, aside from the movement and dial, Tudor reference 7924 is identical to its iconic Rolex “Big Crown” brothers. The present lot reference is the only vintage big crown produced in a series by Tudor. It is also the last “No Crown Guard” 200 meter depth rated dive watch made by the brand.

(Est: US$60,000-100,000)

Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-014

Lot 22 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-014, Nautilus. A very rare and highly desirable green dial, steel bracelet watch with date.
The present lot, reference 5711/1A-014, is a celebrational Nautilus that commemorates the final “victory lap” of Reference 5711. The fact that it is the last steel 5711 and because it was produced only for one year in very limited numbers, already makes this an extremely exclusive watch.

What differentiates the reference 5711/1A-014 is the olive green dial: It is the only Nautilus to sport a dial in this very subtle green tone. The case has a standard three-part construction rather than the original monobloc case, allowing for easier serviceability and a sapphire case back to view the in-house Calibre 324 S C.

The timepiece has a date complication with white gold hands and hour markers.

(Est: US$200,000-400,000)

Lot 117 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5270P-014. A very fine and rare platinum perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year, day/night indicator, and green dial.
From enthusiasts to collectors alike, all eyes were captured at Baselworld 2011 with the introduction of Patek Philippe reference 5270.

The timepiece marked the latest iteration from the legendary Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph family that began with Reference 1518 in 1941. Reference 5270 sets itself apart from its predecessor (Ref. 5970) with a case diameter increased to 41mm and a case thickness decreased by 1mm. In- house Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q’s additional complication of a day/night indicator further highlights the engineering prowess. The subsidiary registers are, quite playfully, lowered just below the central axis.

Present lot, reference 5270P-014, is among the latest 2022 releases from the perpetual calendar chronograph family. Besides the bold and beautiful green dial, Patek Philippe has opted for a new style of pointed dauphine-style hands; broad and faceted, they resemble the hour markers on the dial. The outer tachymeter scale has also been omitted in favour of a “sporty” minute ring that gives the watch a cleaner aesthetic.

(Est: US$200,000-330,000)

Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 “Alexander Zverev”

Lot 99 – Richard Mille Ref. RM67-02 “Alexander Zverev”. A very fine and rare tonneau-shaped wristwatch, number 297 in a limited edition of 497 examples.
Made to withstand the forces produced in high-intensity activities, the Richard Mille RM67-02 collection includes the perfect watches for super athletes.

The present lot was made in collaboration with German tennis superstar Alexander Zverev who personally wears this model while playing tennis. It is distinguished by the use of red and gold accents in the mid case, echoing the colours found on the flag of Germany. The present timepiece has a comfortable thickness of 7.8mm and an impressive weight of only 32 grams, which includes the strap. It is the lightest strap the brand has ever produced. incredible feather-light weight can be attributed to the patented Carbon and Quartz TPT (Thin Ply Technology) and titanium used to create the case.

The rotor of the automatic-winding calibre is visible through the skeletonised movement and further adds to the sporty and daring nature of the timepiece. The seamless elastic stretch strap helps the watch to be ready for action and wear at a blinks notice.

(Est: US$180,000-350,000)

F.P. Journe, Octa Réserve de Marche

Lot 79 – F.P. Journe, Octa Réserve de Marche. A very rare and early 18k rose gold wristwatch with date, power reserve, and brass movement.


Introduced in 2001, the Octa Réserve de Marche was F.P. Journe’s first automatic wristwatch following the legendary Tourbillion and Résonance. During the 2001-2014 production period of the Octa Réserve de Marche, approximately 800 pieces were created, making this an extremely rare and coveted timepiece.

The present lot’s collectability is furthered by a brass movement that is only found in Journe’s earliest work; it is quite distinct from the contemporary red gold movements which have since become synonymous with the brand. The dial has begun to develop a light patina, which is normal and highly desirable in Journe’s earliest work. This is due, at the time, to the work-in-progress in mastering dial lacquering. The present lot is housed in a favourable 38mm yellow gold case, suitable for a larger array of wrist sizes in contrast to the larger modern pieces.

(Est: US$120,000-220,000)

PERRELET EXPANDS THE “TURBINE EROTIC” COLLECTION WITH TWO NEW LIMITED EDITIONS

In primo piano

Perrelet’s iconic Turbine line offers the possibility of reinventing itself whenever desired thanks to its great versatility

It is no secret that the two key aesthetic elements of this collection, first introduced in 2009 with the patented Turbine technology, are the spinning propeller and its sub-dials. Elements that allow for ever-changing decorations, giving rise to new proposals.

Over the years, many themes have been explored by Perrelet. From models dedicated to the world of aviation and motor racing, to fashion trends such as camouflage patterns or rainbow shades, to name but a few. But also, erotic-themed models, which the brand is relaunching by introducing two new versions in the collection.

Erotic timepieces, called “polissoners” in French or “conversation pieces” in English, have intrigued and fascinated illustrious personalities of the past.

The art of manufacturing erotic watches dates back to the 1600s (at that era these were pocket watches). But a real step forward in the construction of these time-instruments did not occur until the mid-18th with the introduction of the automatons to animate the scenes.

The first pieces of these extravagant watches were made for the Chinese market. Later on, this eccentric passion spread to India and finally reached the European countries.

It has been a few years since the Swiss manufacturer’s last proposals. Following its success and rising demand, Perrelet is pleased to present two new editions for enthusiasts of this style.

Erotic scenes on watches, which have been requested by watch collectors for centuries, embellish the sub-dials of the new “Turbine Erotic” references A4062/S2 and A4062/S3. Japanese Hentai manga-style characters animate two diverse erotic scenarios in the hues of grey, black and bright red. These illustrations materialize in their entirety during the rotation of the 12-blade turbine at high speed. A slight oscillation of the turbine keeps the subject of the paintings a secret and act as censorship.

This special “Turbine Erotic” series, in two different versions, is a limited edition of 50 pieces each. Case, dial, movement and strap are identical for both versions. What distinguishes them are the scenes depicted on the lower dial.

Compared to the previous Turbine Erotic series, these latest editions adopt the redesigned case introduced with the Turbine EVO collection a few years ago.

Made of stainless steel and water-resistant to 5 atm, it measures 44 mm in diameter and features redesigned lugs, a smooth flat bezel and the distinctive vertical fluted case band.

The prominent crown personalised with the Maison’s logo allows for a better grip when setting the time or winding the watch.

The “Turbine Erotic” is not only an original and exclusive watch in terms of aesthetics. It is also a mechanical timepiece of outstanding reliability.

Both versions are powered by the in-house automatic calibre P-331-MH beating at 28-800 vibrations per hour and offering 42-hour power reserve.

This movement is covered by the prestigious Chronofiable and COSC certifications testifying high precision in timekeeping after having undergone a series of tests.

Perrelet TURBINE EROTICSpecifications

Turbine Erotic  Ref.A4062/S2 & Ref. A4062/S3

Movement:

Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, mechanical with automatic winding, COSC and Chronofiable certified

28.800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)

Number of jewels: 25

Power reserve (fully wound up): 42 hours

Bridges with circular graining finish

Open-worked and rhodium-plated oscillating weight with Perrelet logo

Functions:

Hours, minutes and seconds

Case:

Round, stainless steel

Diameter: 44 mm

Thickness: 13, 82 mm

Flat bezel

Vertical fluted case band

Crown with Perrelet logo

Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment

Transparent sapphire glass case back

Waterproof to 5 ATM

Dial:

Turbine technology

12 black anodized aluminium turbine blades with five tungsten counterweights below

Hour markers and Arabic numerals on the flange filled with Super-LumiNova

Central luminescent hour and minute hands

Central seconds hand in red

Check out the Perrelet site here

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH019

In primo piano

Grand Seiko presents a new 36000 Hi-Beat watch, the SLGH019 model, which draws inspiration from the evocative shadows that surround Mount Iwate during winter nights.

This new timepiece from the Evolution 9 Collection is available exclusively in the Grand Seiko Online Boutique.

The Shizukuishi Studio in Grand Seiko, the factory where all the mechanical watches of the brand are made, enjoys a magnificent view of Mount Iwate overlooking the skyline of the region with its 2,038 meters high.

Mount Iwate gives its maximum splendor in the winter season, when the night is serene and its snowy slopes are illuminated by the stars. The dial of the new 36000 Hi-Beat watch is inspired by the intense blue hue of the night sky above this majestic peak.

As with all watches in the Evolution 9 collection, the faceted hands and three-dimensional indexes guarantee perfect readability.

The alternation between Zaratsu polishing, gives the case a harmonious shine, while the wide loops and the low center of gravity of the case give a grip to the wrist without equal.

The watch is powered by the unprecedented caliber 9SA5, which provides an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day and a power reserve of 80 hours thanks to the combination of two technologies: the dual-pulse escapement, high energy efficiency, and the pair of barrels, that offers more energy.

The new Grand Seiko SLGH019 is available here

https://store.grandseikoboutique.eu/it/Watch/SLGH019/p/SLGH019G

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH019 – specifications

High intensity titanium case and bracelet
Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment Transparent screw case back
Water resistance: 10 bar
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Thickness: 11.7 mm
Bracelet with triple folding clasp and button release Recommended Selling Price in Italy 10.500 €

New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar

In primo piano

The new generation of Seiko Speedtimer chronographs welcomes a series of three new creations, characterized by a design that embodies the spirit of the original series, and that at the same time offer the practicality, reliability and precision of Seiko solar technology.

All three watches are available from November 2022 at Seiko boutiques and authorized retailers around the world.

The introduction of the Seiko Speedtimer in 1969 was an important landmark in chronograph history.

Check out solar Solar on Amazon HERE

It was one of the first automatic chronographs in the world, powered by the calibre 6139, whose precision in measuring time spent marked a real progress in the history of the automatic wristwatch.

As with all Speedtimer chronographs, every detail of this design reflects the precision required to measure time spent with the utmost accuracy.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar – new design

The chronograph seconds hand has an elongated silhouette that extends to the tachometer indicators at the edges of the dial.

The minute hand of the chronograph placed at six o’clock and the central second hand are both red in color so as to stand out on the dial and ensure the reading of the time spent at a glance.

The date window is positioned between the hour indices 4 and 5 so that the exact time can always be displayed with ease.

All three timepieces are powered by the Seiko V192 solar calibre with up to 60-minute chronograph, in units of fifths of a second, a 24-hour sub-dial and a six-month power reserve without light exposure.

The hour, minute and all twelve hour markers are lined with Lumibrite to ensure time reading even in low light.

The combination of smooth and satin finish on the bracelet and the curved sapphire crystal gives the watches a classic yet sporty look.

The thickness and weight of the bracelet guarantee stability and a high level of comfort on the wrist. The dials show a sunray finish, which ensures the highest level of readability, a key feature of any Prospex watch.

These three new solar-powered chronographs offer the high performance of the Prospex Speedtimer to those who want the highest precision of electronic timekeeping and the reliability and convenience of a watch powered exclusively by sunlight.

Microbrands Book

In primo piano

The Microbrands Book is finally available on Amazon, the first book of watches dedicated to Microbrands!

This book It is the result of impressibe work.

Hundreds of photos and thousands of information, you can only understand what it means to try to tidy everything up and put it together in what is the first book dedicated to small watch manufacturers (called microbrands) from all over the world.

Microbrands Book – how it is structured

The book contains almost 50 watch manufacturers and each microbrand has 4 pages.

In these 4 pages (totally in English, being distributed all over the world) the brand is presented with the main info on prices, year of foundation, type of watches etc. and are also inserted the models of the moment/ main with all the features.

Finally, my comment “Why Buy?” is inserted with my opinion.

This Book will be published annually with a new edition and new models/brands.

I decided to make this book because I think it’s time to give more importance to this sector of watchmaking, which has always remained in the shadows.

This is the first edition and I plan to publish every year a new edition with new watches, always updated and lots of news!

You can find below the link to the book on Amazon!

https://amzn.to/3ECmCB3

The book is also available on the website Mondadori and Feltrinelli and soon on Amazon World and from 2023 will be available also on the best online libraries of all over the world.

If you are passionate about watches and microbrands I think this book is for you!

Tolentino Watches Microbrand

In primo piano

Just discovered a new Microbrand from Italy called Tolentino!

Every time I discover new watches I feel very happy but at the same time especially proud when the brand is from Italy.

Tolentino is a new watch brand founded by Cesare Angrisani in 2020 with headquarters in Cercola (NA).

Tolentino brand is born with the precise purpose of presenting on the market a new generation of fine watches. Central to their project is the concept of quality.

They seek the highest quality throughout the production chain: quality of materials, quality of components, quality of processing, quality of processes and quality of business choices made.

The mission of Tolentino is clear, creating a high quality product that has an affordable price and for this reason they decided to realize a Swiss Made watch.

In order to mark their timepieces with the Swiss Made seal, synonymous with the best watchmaking in the world, together with their Swiss partners they complete the technical development of the design up to prototyping, The entire assembly and testing is carried out in Switzerland.

Their watches feature only Swiss-made automatic movements.

In December 2020, once the business plan was planned and structured, Tolentino presented the business project with particular reference to the production of our first line of watches at Invitalia, very important government agency for the development of new businesses, recognizing the merit of their project by providing them in October 2021 a soft financing that put Tolentino in the correct position to start the business.

Tolentino Undici/11 – the first collection

The first collection of Tolentino watches is called Undici/11 and we are talking about a Swiss Made diver.

Please take a look to the dial. I know there are too many swiss made diver watches but I am very happy to say that this is something special.

You can see from this photo the elements that make this watch unique.

The dial in its three-dimensionality, the ceramic bezel, the satin finish of the case together with the shiny parts. Everything perfectly in harmony.

Every choice regarding the creation of this timepiece is based on the integration of technical, qualitative, stylistic and functional aspects.

With a case of just 40 mm this watch is perfect for every wrist size.

Bezel and dials are available in different colors and there are 2 type of strap (mailanese mesh and oyster bracelet) included into the affordable retail price of 920€

Tolentino Undici/11 is the Swiss Made diving watch that combines high performance, quality materials, workmanship and high-end details at a mid-range price, able to make a difference every single day.

In August 2022 Tolentino launched a pre-order campaign on Kickstarter, which anticipates the release of Eleven/11 scheduled for December 2022, which collected 162% of the goal set in 30 days.

The watches are available in different colors with ceramic bezel and the dial is very interesting with a 3-dimensional appearance looks even more modern.

Tolentino Undici/11 – specifications

  • Case 40 mm
  • Movement Sellita 200-1 with 41 hours power reserve and stop seconds
  • 316L Stainless steel case
  • 200 m WT
  • Ceramic Bezel
  • 2.8 mm thick flat sapphire crystal highly resistant to shocks and scratches, with anti-reflection treatment.
  • System with double hole to perfectly support both straps that mounts, both the classic three-link bracelet and the Milanese knit bracelet. Both bracelets are made of 316L stainless steel and equipped with safety deployant closure.
  • Hand-finished multi-level dial, with indexes and hands with luminescent inserts that guarantee the best visibility even in the dark.

This watch will be also available on the next Indiegogo campaign to this link at the very interesting price of 680€

#adv

Roger Dubuis Excalibur double tourbillon white ceramic edition

In primo piano

Roger Dubuis Hyper technical. Hyper expressive. All this and much more defines the Excalibur Double Tourbillon White Ceramic edition.

First Roger Dubuis with white ceramic case, this timepiece features a design in EON GOLDTM that creates a play of contrasts very refined.

The combination of the watch’s unique aesthetic and the advanced mechanics of the iconic double tourbillon once again proves the House’s watchmaking and technical supremacy in the world of Hyper HorologyTM.

Roger Dubuis – Shaping raw ceramics

Shaping raw ceramics to create the original case that identifies Roger Dubuis’ creations is a bold challenge: the House’s desire not to compromise on the shape of this iconic element has required a review of the entire production process.

Ceramic is four times harder to work than stainless steel, and its finish takes 15 times longer than the creation of the same gold case – only the most passionate and skilled craftsmen dare to cope with such a task.

Hyper resistant to scratches and able not to oxidize over time, ceramic timepieces by Roger Dubuis combine in themselves hyper durability and hyper expressiveness.

WATCH SKILLS LIKE NO OTHER

Recently embellished with elements of extraordinary craftsmanship, the calibre RD108 is a real technical feat, expression of a contemporary taste.

Entirely created within the Manufacture, the iconic movement features two tourbillons connected by a central differential that increases accuracy by maximizing energy transmission.In fact, the weight of the creation has been decidedly reduced, Thanks to the bottom of the tourbillon cage made of titanium – twice as light as stainless steel.

To demonstrate that no detail is left aside, no magnetic materials were used in the tourbillon, so as to provide the wearer with an even better experience.

These technical choices allow you to radically optimize the power reserve to 72 hours, which means that you can not wear the watch on the weekend without having to worry about winding it.


At the same time, the clean cut lines that characterize the 45 mm case and the movement create a strong visual identity giving the whole an impression of lightness.

The revisitation of the star Roger Dubuis, repositioned to levitate freely above the barrel, accentuates the sense of transparency and gives depth to the whole.

This dynamic aesthetic has been recognized by the Poinçon de Genève, the most rigorous of the Haute Horlogerie quality certifications since it requires that every single component of the watch is finished by hand.

The expressive and modern lines of the iconic Excalibur Doppio Tourbillon are amplified by accurate aesthetic choices.

Characterized by an undoubtedly unique and refined design, the case in a bright white ceramic is combined with a bezel, crown and case back in precious EON GOLD TM.

STRONG CONTRASTS FOR A SPECIAL DESIGN

This design is further enhanced by the pink gold coating applied to the characteristic star, hour markers and indexes, which in turn are applied to the white flange in MCF – Mineral Composite Fiber.

To give the creation a playful touch, the SuperLumiNovaTM* coating is applied with extreme precision to the iconic star and tourbillon cages, which thus shine in the dark.

The direct application on the inclined corners, without any frame to contain the luminescent paint, requires a great craftsmanship, which only a few people master.

Hour markers and the tips of the hands, coated in the same luminous material, are also visible at night. Only a lucky few will be able to secure this exceptional creation, produced in just 8 copies.


The Excalibur Double Tourbillon White Ceramic edition is the most recent progress made by Roger Dubuis in his relentless pursuit of high performance, perfect mastery of materials and distinctive design. Yet another demonstration of how the House represents and will always represent the most exciting way to experience the Hyper HorologyTM.

https://www.rogerdubuis.com/

MAURICE LACROIX AIKON VENTURER 38 MM

In primo piano

The Maurice Lacroix AIKON has proved a great success. Its popularity has grown, as has the size
the Swiss company is constantly striving to meet the needs of its customers.

Today, the original Jura brand has created a new AIKON, perfectly at ease in an urban or
in adventures outside the city.

Enclosed in a new 38 mm case, this new model is unisex, it adapts to the most wrists and proves highly versatile.

Since the first versions of the AIKON appeared on the watch market in 2016, this model
has quickly become synonymous with urban life.

From the beginning, it has proved to be a perfect combination of craftsmanship
Swiss craftsmanship, exceptional design and high perceived value: a winning combination, which led to the great success of the AIKON.

Initially designed for millennials, AIKON is also loved by Generation Z. The model’s popularity
has grown, as has the size of the collection.

Launching new materials, colors and complications, in fact, Maurice Lacroix has consistently exceeded the expectations of his fans. Now, the brand from the Swiss Jura is pleased to present a new model, the AIKON Venturer 38 mm.

Aware that more and more customers are looking for box options smaller than 40 mm,
Maurice Lacroix has designed this new watch as a unisex model, with ideal sizes for most
wrist part.

Like the other AIKON models, the Venturer 38 mm also fits perfectly into city life.

However, this watch strongly urges the wearer to explore new places, to leave the beaten path and to venture into the Blue oceans.

This watch, in fact, is highly versatile and proves perfect on many occasions.

The AIKON Venturer 38 mm, available with two-colour dials, black or green, is equipped with hour and silver-plated minutes, coated with white Super-luminova. Luminescent triangular indexes allow you to read the hours.


Characterized by sharp white lines, the minute track frames the dial and proves to be an indispensable element to read the time. The central seconds hand is equipped with a luminescent “lollipop” element, which improves the readability.

Positioned at 3 o’clock, the date display clearly stands out on the sun dial. Everything has been optimized for ensure that the dial is easy to read, day or night, by land and sea.

https://www.mauricelacroix.com/ch_en/news/aikon-venturer-38mm

Maurice Lacroix 42 mm

Maurice Lacroix Tide Blue

Giorgio Salvatore Watches Microbrand

In primo piano

Today I just discovered a new Italian Microbrand called Giorgio Salvatore!

Giorgio Salvatore is a new brand whose project was born 3 years ago in Milan and was developed in a team of professionals in an Italian specialized center recognized internationally.

GS is a project born in Milan in 2019 inspired by the history of Giorgio Salvatore.

Mechanic and designer, Giorgio was born in 1935 in Milan, where as a child he learned the art of mechanics, thanks to his parents former pilots without fear of danger.

He worked in the family workshop and then took a path as a designer in the Alfa Romeo car manufacturer.

Eager to create his own company, he opened a mechanical workshop in the 60’s and later a dealership, devoting himself in his spare time to the maintenance of vintage cars.

His daughter and niece grew up breathing his passion, and later decided to bring to life a design inspired by car shapes.

The first design draft was drawn in January 2019, and then developed and tested until April 2022, thanks to the collaboration of a highly specialized team.

The first collection of Giorgio Salvatore watches is called FirstClassic,

The goal of the fundraising is to start the start-up, devoting particular attention to the research and development of new and more advanced specimens.

Watch features: it’s unisex, wearable at any age and on any occasion.  

The materials have been chosen with care and are of excellent quality.Technical characteristics:

Giorgio Salvatore – Why buy?

1. It’s a made in Italy product that aims to give work to a young segment

2.  Has a patented design, it’s unique.

3. It’s available on the crowfounding platform (Indiegogo) with a 16% discount plus a 20% discount on a purchase of a future new model.

4. It’s covered by a 2 years warranty

5. Free worldwide shipping

You can find link to the campaign here

Sponsored post

Winner Watch Grand Seiko Kodo Tourbillon

In primo piano

 

Thursday 10 November, was held at the Théatre du Léman in Geneva the award ceremony of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2022 with Grand Seiko Kodo Tourbillon as a very important protagonist.

Fifteen timepieces awarded for specific categories and five other awards were awarded for a number of other watchmaking achievements.

A Grand Prix Prize was awarded to the absolute best watch in all categories.

The jury of 30 experts selected the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon as the winner of the “Chronometry” Award, which recognizes the timepiece’s excellence for its high-precision timekeeping performance.

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch.

It’s characterized by a unique and innovative movement, the Calibre 9ST1, which, for the first time in watchmaking history, combines a tourbillon and a constant force mechanism as a single unit on a single axis.

The watch was called Kodo, which in Japanese means heartbeat, because of the unique movement of the two mechanisms and the sound that the rhythm creates.

Tourbillon System

The tourbillon’s internal system rotates without friction, while the balance vibrates evenly at 8 oscillations per second, and the outside at constant force follows the rotation at exact intervals of a second to create a rhythmic sensation of 16 notes.

Each main component is finished strictly by hand by means of a variety of techniques aimed at highlighting the movement as a whole thanks to the discreet and durable brilliance at the same time, which is the hallmark of Grand Seiko.

The case construction makes use of both 950 platinum and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium to achieve a long lasting beauty.

Award to Grand Seiko

The award was presented to Akio Naito (right), President of Seiko Watch Corporation, and to Grand Seiko movement designer Takuma Kawauchiya (left), who designed and assembled the winner watch.

During his speech, Akio Naito said: “Everyone at Grand Seiko is incredibly proud of this award, as Kodo is the brand’s first mechanical complication watch in its 62-year history. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to the members of the jury who recognized this achievement to the team of our engineers and watchmakers, led by Takuma Kawauchiya”.

https://www.grand-seiko.com/it-it/collections/slgt003g

CIGA DESIGN Z Series

In primo piano

Winner of the 2022 German Design Award – The Z Series has earned an incredible reputation as the flagship collection of CIGA Design.

It features an exceptional, beautiful and refined exterior, with the added benefit of customization thanks to different straps and materials.

Aesthetic Skeleton “Open Heart” – A way to showcase the superiority of the powerful and cutting-edge mechanisms that are the basis of a sophisticated watch. Showing how the mechanism works allows you to create a watch of great style that amazes those who see it as much as the wearer.

CIGA DESIGN Z Series automatic caliber

Sophisticated Automatism – Seagull custom automatic caliber with 25 jewels and 176 precision parts. With a range of 40 hours and a movement frequency of 21600 times per hour.

Visible main spring to estimate the remaining charge. Your movement is used to produce the kinetic energy that allows the gauge to work.

Quintessence and Robustness – Made with Grade Marine 316L Stainless Steel. Covered with scratch-resistant Sapphire Crystal designed to last a long time.

Engraved with a high precision laser of 0.03mm. The refined tonneau case is made with 3600 seconds of mechanical cutting. Independent high-speed drilling 5000 RPM, finely polished 12 times.

Minimalist Presentation – The packaging that resembles a book and the design that entices you to turn the pages, satisfy the curiosity every time you explore, entirely made of superior quality ecological paper.

A perfect style for collecting or as a gift for any occasion. A breathable sports 3D dot strap made of food grade silicone and a durable extra calf leather strap.

Water resistant 3ATM – Suitable for daily use. Splash/rain resistant. Not suitable for use in shower, tub, swimming, snorkeling, diving, fishing and water work.

CIGA DESIGN Z Series Specifications

  • Model name Z031-SISI
  • Identification code Z031
  • Forma Tonneau
  • Type of glass Sapphire crystal
  • Type of dial Analog
  • Closing Ad Ardiglione
  • Material of case Stainless steel
  • Diameter of the case 48 mm
  • Thickness of the case 12 mm
  • Material of the Silicone Strap
  • Standard band size for men
  • Strap width 22 mm
  • Strap Color Blue
  • Color Silver dial
  • Material of bezel Stainless steel
  • Functions of the Fixed Bezel
  • Type of calendar No calendar
  • Special Features Automatic Mechanical Watch, Steampunk Skeleton

Norrona Diver

In primo piano

Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin collaborates with the Norwegian outdoor sportswear brand Norrľna, known for its premium and sustainable outerwear and presents the new DIVER NORRƠNA Arctic Night.

The timepiece, a limited edition of 29, will be sold exclusively together with an arktis Gore-Tex. Pro Norrơna jacket. This collaboration testifies to the shared commitment of Ulysse Nardin and Norrơna to the environment through the use of alternative and sustainable materials.

On the occasion of the launch of the new watch, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to announce his partnership with the Norwegian polar explorer Bőrge Ousland, an active member of the Norrơna family.

During his last expedition to the Arctic Circle, Bőrge Ousland wore the DIVER NORRƠNA Arctic Night along with the arktis Gore-Tex Pro Norrơna jacket, which he designed in collaboration with Norrơna.

COLLABORATION FOR A COMMON GOAL

The collaboration between the two brands is no surprise: both share the same love for nature and aspire to move to a “more circular model” using alternative materials in their respective sectors.

The two brands are embarking on a decisive path towards more sustainable creations.

• 1860: Ulysse Nardin, a Swiss watchmaker from the majestic Jura Mountains, begins selling on-board marine chronometers for explorers, sailors and navigators from around the world, allowing them to navigate the open sea. Today, five generations later, Ulysse Nardin is an independent manufacturer.

1929: Jőrgen Jőrgensen, a Norwegian outdoor enthusiast, began his search for more durable outdoor equipment to use in Norway’s rugged and rugged territories. Today, four generations later, Norrơna is still a family business.

Ulysse Nardin unveils the DIVER NORRƠNA Arctic Night, a watch that carries the iconic logo, DNA and sustainability commitments of both brands.

Just six months after the launch of the DIVER THE OCEAN RACE in collaboration with THE OCEAN RACE, the DIVER NORRƠNA Arctic Night represents a new black-colored version of the most sustainable watch in Ulysse Nardin’s portfolio to date.

Inspired by the Norwegian landscape, with its fjords and volcanic rocks, the colour palette of this timepiece, black, grey and white, recalls deep geological formations, dark and ancestral, which constitute the oldest and best preserved sedimentary rocks on the planet.

The new project represents the commitment of both houses to safeguard a future for our planet, starting from the poles.

The sea ice helps regulate the terrestrial climate and it is known that the warming of the polar oceans has strong repercussions both on the species that inhabit these territories and on us. This collaboration is a call to action.

Norrona Diver THE RECYCLED PARTS OF THE ARCTIC NIGHT DIVER

  • Case side and the case back of the new DIVER NORRƠNA are made to 40% in Carbonium. and 60% with recycled fishing nets Nylo ³ (suppliers: Lavoisier Composite and FIL&FAB, France)
  • stainless steel watch case consists of 80% recycled automotive materials (supplier: Voestalpine Boehler, Austria)
  • bezel decoration is made of 100% Carbonium®
  • strap with scratch-resistant closure is made with fishing nets recycled to the
    100% (supplier: JTTI, France)
  • Finally, all components of the UN-118 automatic manufacturing movement
    are from Switzerland, almost all within a radius of 30 km

The CARBONIUM®

Carboniumķ consists of the same fibers used for the fuselage and wings of the latest generation aircraft.

Production of Carbonium” has a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites, since it uses aircraft parts cuttings. The use of regenerated material clearly underlines once again the innovative and bold spirit of the brand.

THE NYLO®

Other alternative material used in the watch is called Nylo ľ. (supplier FIL&FAB). The goal is to raise awareness by creating “new from the old” and regenerating materials, especially plastic.

This process of regenerating networks underlines Ulysse Nardin’s interest in a circular economic model.

In fact, the brand has placed its trust in the young Breton designers who created the first fishing net recycling business in France. FIL&FAB, a start-up in the field of industrial design and transition, recovers discarded nets in French fishing ports and recycles them in the form of polyamide granules called Nylo.

The DIVER NORRƠNA Arctic Night is a limited edition of only 29 pieces (a nod to 1929, year of foundation of NORRƠNA), all numbered from 1 to 29 and therefore unique.

The watch will be sold together with the arktis Gore-Tex PRO NORRĽNA jacket and will be available exclusively on www.ulysse-nardin.com, www.norrona.com and in Norrľna flagship stores in New York, Munich Oslo, Stockholm, from 2 November 2022, for the price of 11’900 CHF/11’300 EUR/ 12’600 USD.

CHRISTIE’S #1 POSITION OF THE GENEVA WATCH AUCTIONS

In primo piano

TOTALIZING CHF 55 MILLION

17 lots selling above CHF1 Million 40% of new bidders

2 Live Auctions:
Legendary and Unique Watches realizing CHF 31,877,418 /$31,679,596 Rare Watches realizing CHF23,669,670 / $23,859,366

Geneva – Historic moment during this autumn Geneva watch season. Christie’s becomes No. 1 of the watch auction market in Geneva, the nest of fine watchmaking, by totalizing CHF55,548,348 /$55,540,232 / Euro56,302,789 / HK$433,841,034.

The week started with an incredible white glove sale, followed by the “Rare Watches” auction where 238 lots out of 239 lots found a new owner. The two watch auctions on 6 and 7 November held at Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues attracted 40% new bidders with a record attendance online as well as room participation.


LOT 34
Patek Philippe
Nautilus Model, additional signed Tiffany & Co REF 5711/1A-018
Estimate 1.5-3 million
Price realized CHF3,174,000

Christie’s

Outstanding result leads the overall Geneva Autumn 2022 watch sale week and demonstrates the savoir-faire of its young and dynamic team bringing to auction one of the most important private collections (Legendary and Unique Watches) and horology masterpieces, contested by bidders from 46 countries.


LOT 92
Patek Philippe Additionally signed Cartier REF 1518
Estimate 1.5-2.6 million
Price realized CHF2,214,000

Incredible results were achieved, including for lot 34, Patek Philippe reference 5711/1A-018, additionally signed Tiffany & Co. selling above estimate for CHF3,174,000 against a retail price of USD52,000.


TOP LOT
Rolex Daytona, Paul Newman Model REF 6263
Estimate
CHF 3-5 million
Price realized CHF3,414,000

Remi Guillemin, Head of Christie’s Geneva Watch department expressed: ”Holding two high calibre auctions with incredible sell through rates of 100% and 99.18% within 24 hours is an unseen moment in watch auction history, making Christie’s the market leader. Our gratitude goes to our worldwide collectors, confirming Christie’s Geneva as a special place for Rolex and masterpieces.”

https://www.christies.com/

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art La légende du zodiaque

In primo piano

China, a country with which Vacheron Constantin has had a special relationship since 1845, created the art of Jianzhi, a technique of paper decoupage.

This form of folk art echoes in Swiss culture through the famous découpage Scherenschnitt.

This artistic approach, enhanced by the Métiers d’Art collection La légende du zodiaque Chinois, this year finds a new interpretation thanks to the savoir-faire of the master engravers and enamellers.

Vacheron Constantin

A combination of art crafts

The leaf pattern visible on the dial is taken from classical Chinese iconography and is engraved directly into the metal.

The decoration remains semi-set and stands out on the gold base thanks to the delicate realization of more or less accentuated reliefs, which give an effect of depth, as if the leaves were floating on the dial.

Vacheron Constantin


This phase is followed by Grand Feu enameling, an ancestral technique that only a few craftsmen still master.

Applying the enamel in successive layers, the enameler accentuates the intensity of the blue or bronze colors of the dial.

The full control of the colour and the cooking phase, which takes place between 800 and 900 degrees Celsius, requires the artist such experience that can only be acquired after several years. The rabbit, in platinum or rose gold, is hand-engraved before being gently applied to the center of the dial.

Vacheron Constantin

The automatic caliber 2460 G4 has a 40-hour power reserve. Its 237 components come to life in a 31 mm diameter with a thickness of 6.05 mm. This movement is certified with the Hallmark of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin – A calibre that leaves ample room for artistic expression

The 2460 G4 calibre offers ample decorative freedom, especially with regard to the central motif of the dial, which takes on a leading role.

The dial, without hands, indicates the hours, minutes, day of the week and the date through four windows.

Vacheron Constantin

The automatic caliber 2460 G4 has a 40-hour power reserve. Its 237 components come to life in a 31 mm diameter with a thickness of 6.05 mm. This movement is certified with the Hallmark of Geneva.

These indications, the first two with continuous display, the other jumping, express all the savoir-faire of the House in the design and development of unique and original dials. Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case back of the platinum or rose gold case, the 22 carat gold oscillating mass is embellished by the recurring decoration of a Maltese cross, a finish executed in line with the best watchmaking traditions.

All components of the movement meet the requirements of the Hallmark of Geneva, the prestigious quality mark of which Vacheron Constantin is the most loyal representative.

Vacheron Constantin Specifications

Case:

Platinum/rose gold
40 mm diameter, 12.72 mm thickness
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water resistance tested at 3 bar pressure (about 30 meters)

Dial

Gold, hand-chiseled, enamelled Grand Feu Hand-chiseled rabbit in platinum/rose gold

Strap

Alligator leather Mississippiensis blue/dark brown with alligator lining, hand stitched, stitched,
large square scales

Clasp

Pink Platinum/Gold Half Cross Flap Clasp Polished Mortar

https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/

Seiko 10th annsiversary of the Astron GPS Solar

In primo piano


Seiko presents two new creations with a new sporty design that enrich the Astron collection.

A watch features a dial inspired by the phenomenon of Nova in the night sky; a second watch, whose dial echoes the explosive power of the Supernova, is a limited edition celebrating the tenth anniversary of the Astron GPS Solar.

Astron GPS Solar is one of the most advanced wristwatches in the world. It adapts to the wearer’s time zone with the push of a button by connecting to the GPS satellite network.

It takes all the energy it needs from light alone and delivers the unsurpassed precision of an atomic clock. It automatically connects up to twice a day to the satellite network to ensure the accuracy of the time. It is the perfect watch for the global traveller.

seiko astron

Characteristics

The new Astron timepieces show a new refinement both from a design point of view and from a technical perspective.

The case has a strong and vigorous silhouette and the low center of gravity ensures that the watch adheres firmly to the wrist; at the same time the wide opening of the dial, Clearly cut three-dimensional indexes and long, tapered hands ensure that the time can be read precisely at a glance. The compact bracelet with H-shaped links also conveys a feeling of solidity and fits securely and comfortably to the wrist.

seiko astron

The splendor of a “Nova”


The radiating motif of the new Astron GPS Solar is inspired by the formation of a Nova in the night sky.


Nova is one of nature’s most remarkable astronomical phenomena.

Long regarded as the creation of a new star, a Nova takes the form of a sudden and dazzling light emission.

Tinanium choice

Titanium case and bracelet are as durable as stainless steel and at the same time 40% lighter.

The extra-hard coating and ceramic bezel cover protect the watch from scratches.

The sapphire crystal has a super transparent coating, which eliminates any reflection thus offering optimal visibility from any angle, while the Lumibrite on the hands and indexes ensures perfect readability even in low light conditions.

A new limited edition for the 10th anniversary of the Astron GPS Solar Inspired by the energy of a Supernova.

Built to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Seiko Astron GPS Solar, this extraordinary watch, which mounts the latest caliber GPS Solar 5X53 Seiko, has a dial with a radial pattern that echoes the explosive power of a Supernova.

When the first Astron GPS Solar watch was unveiled in 2012 it ushered in a new era for watchmaking technology.

The steady advancement of Seiko’s Solar GPS technology over the past decade has ensured that Astron’s star shines brighter than ever in the watchmaking firmament.

With its design inspired by the Supernova, the delicate lamé pattern of the dial and its cutting-edge functionality, this new limited edition Astron GPS watch of 1,500 pieces pays tribute to a great tradition.

Blue lumibrite

The hands and hour markers are coated with a layer of blue Lumibrite to ensure that Astron’s exceptional precision in time detection can be appreciated even in low light conditions. The color of Lumibrite is a particular shade of blue.

Tecnologia del Calibro 5X

Both watches are powered by the Calibre 5X53 Dual-Time, Seiko’s most advanced and thinnest Solar GPS movement.

The Calibre GPS Solar 5X53 Dual-Time connects up to twice a day to the GPS network to maintain its accuracy* anywhere in the world.

It automatically adapts to daylight saving time, and when you need to adjust the time zone just press a button and the hands will move faster to reach the exact local time taking into account daylight saving time*, thanks to the independent displacement system of each hand.

In addition, the wearer of the watch has the possibility to change the main display instantly from home time to that of the country where it is located, and vice versa.

Astron GPS Solar is the perfect watch for the international traveler.

Check out the Seiko Boutique here!

De Bethune presents The “Sensoriel Chronometry Project”

In primo piano

De Bethune is going to offer some of its customers a chance when purchasing their DB28GS Grand Bleu to first wear a test watch equipped with a multitude of sensors that will be able to record the wearer’s environment and specific behaviour.

Two weeks of wearing the test watch will be enough to harvest all the necessary data enabling the De Bethune Chronometry Workshop in Switzerland to analyse the type of ‘wear’ and thus adjust the timepiece specifically for its owner.

To achieve this, De Bethune has built a robot arm inside its Manufacture in L’Auberson.

Installed in an atmospheric chamber and using state-of-the-art technology, this device will receive all the data collected by the test watch’s sensors and thus be able to accurately recreate the wearer’s movements in their specific environment.

It will be possible to carry out its customised chronometric (precision timekeeping) adjustment before delivering the watch to its new owner.

A new vision of chronometry from De Bethune

Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and co-founder of De Bethune, is constantly striving to improve the highest standards of precision for all his timepieces. With this programme dubbed the “Sensoriel Chronometry project”, he is paving the way for a new vision of chronometry.

Whereas the entire watch industry – including the most prestigious certifications – works when adjusting watches on averages and static tests that still do not take into account the dynamic wear and the daily constraints specific to each watch.

De Bethune has chosen the path of truly customised and unique adjustment based on wear that is not theoretical and dictated by a machine, but instead on the real-life conditions awaiting each of its watches.

Each watch that benefits from customised chronometric adjustment will leave the workshops accompanied by a personalised report detailing all the data used for its adjustment.

In concrete terms, purchasers of a De Bethune timepiece who requests the adjustment of their watch will simply have to wear a test watch on their wrist for a two-week period.

De Bethune Database

Approximately 2’000’000 pieces of information per hour generated by each test watch will be harvested and added to a valuable database for the De Bethune Chronometry Workshop, which will analyse the real-life constraints to which each timepiece is subjected and thus be able to adjust them precisely in relation to these exact constraints.

The information from the test watches will be harvested every few seconds.

Wearers will not have to do anything special, except wear the test watch in exactly the same conditions as their future timepiece and regularly recharge it on a simple charging station or using a classic USB cable.

Human Scale Size

Finally, as the Manufacture De Bethune and Denis Flageollet’s team have maintained a human-scale size, it goes without saying that this service is part of a very exclusive context of the brand’s production and will benefit from a gradual ramp-up, starting with a few timepieces per year.

While the concern for the specific adjustment of each of its watches reflects the full extent of the passion that they devotes to making them, it can also be explained by the very strong ties woven between every owner of a De Bethune and their timepiece.

De Bethune – more than a timepiece

This watches are far more than an instrument that tells the time: it is a deeply personal, unique object.

De Bethune remains firmly focused on its projects while pursuing its efforts and its resolutely futuristic vision of the Art of Watchmaking.

This degree of mastery unleashes creativity, opens up the spectrum of possibilities and serves to embody an ideal of precision cherished by Denis Flageollet.

Check out their site here

Ludwig 33 Noir by NOMOS

In primo piano

Delicate but sophisticated: Ludwig 33 noir, the new women’s watch by NOMOS Glashütte. Made in the wake of the 175 years of watchmaking tradition of Glashütte, this new watch will dance gracefully in all the festivals of this winter and will be the undisputed queen of every event. It’s a little black dress for the wrist.

Designed to last: the hand-made calibre (manually wound, with one hundred individual components, 17 jewels, a movement with different special features of Glashütte). Polished and shining, the stainless steel sapphire crystal case recalls the antique pocket watches,

Ludwig? It’s certainly an unusual name for a women’s watch, but that only makes the model more interesting. Overall, the Ludwig 33 noir is a watch with a feminine, charming personality and the utmost perfection.

NOMOS Glashütte presents Ludwig 33 noir, a wonderfully delicate watch with a highly sophisticated-looking galvanized black dial. A distinctive feature of the Glashütte watchmaking tradition, highlighted by the golden hands: it is magnificent and self-confident, with the most refined internal workmanship.

NOMOS Glashütte celebrates the female wrist with a special women’s watch with extraordinary features: Ludwig 33 noir by NOMOS Glashütte.

Check out the official site from Nomos here

Geckota Sea Hunter Slimline

In primo piano

New review today of one of the most interesting brand you can find in the watch community and I am talking about Geckota watches!

I had the opportunity to review the new Geckota Sea Hunter Slimline Green Sunburst.

This watch is really comfortable on the wrist and I have to say that I love a lot wear this timepiece.

This watch has very good dimension especially thanks to the case with just 12 mm thickness and 40 mm diameter.

About the movement the Geckota Hunter Slimline is powered by the premium Miyota 9039.

There are different color options you can check on Geckota site but my favourite was absolutely this green sunburst and this is why I choosed this one to review.

In particular I absolutely love the no bezel choice and thanks to this the watch has a very modern look.

Options for the Slimline collection

Geckota Sea Hunter Slimline – Why buy?

I think that this is a good everyday watch and Geckota is making new cool timepieces every year.

The ratio quality price is honest for what you get and also the bracelet gives a good feeling on the wrist.

The bracelet has 2 different finishes and you can’t stop looking at it.

Probably just 2 points where the brand can make a little improvement are the clasp and the back of the case but as we know there is always the possibility to improve every year from every brand.

Details

I liked a lot the hands of this timepiece and especially the super clean dial with this green sunburst really visible.

The hands and hour markers are lumed with Super-LumiNova® and are housed under a curved edge-box sapphire crystal with an underside anti-reflective coating

Remember also that despite the very slim case this watch is 200 m water resistent so you can use it also in a lot of different situation.

Sea Hunter Slimline – Specifications

Here you can find all the specifications of the watch

Here you can find the link direct to site if you want to check out the watch!

Manime Watches Microbrand

In primo piano

I am finally ready to present you a new watch and new microbrand that is now live for pre order on their site and is called Manime!

Manime watches is a new microbrand created by Édouard, a very nice french guy and of course a true watch lover and like many other inspired by his country, France.

The Founder – Edouard

The logo, also designed by him, was inspired by the yellow rose that symbolises friendship, and by France’s shape, the hexagon.

Manime Watches – La F.

La F. is the first timepiece of the brand and offers a new aesthetic to the classics of horology by adopting different textures and contrasting colors.

Different colors available

The spear like indexes mirror the traditional dauphine hands, and are set in a circular brushed dial available in 4 different colors.

This captivating dial is placed on a cushion case, which combines the ruggedness of a square case with the delicate nature of a round one.

This dichotomy of curves and straight lines gives life to the whole assembly.

Personally I really like the shape of the watch because it reminds to the vintage camaro Tag Heuer Style watch and I have to say that also the dimensions are perfect for every kind of wrist size.

This thank you to the 10.2 mm thickness and 40 mm case.

La F. comes with a 20mm Milanese Mesh strap and a butterfly clasp. Popular in the 70’s, the 1.9mm thick steel strap gives it a polished look.

The strap is caracterizetd by super fast changing buttons.

La F. is powered by the classic and high level Miyota movement 9039 very welll known for affidability and has both sapphire crystal on the top and on the back of the watch.

You can see also the logo on the back.

La F. Specifications

Here you can find the specifications of the watch.

My Impressions

Despite we are talking about a new brand the watch looks cool and the size is perfect for every wrist.

I really like all the colors options and the vintage style of this timepiece and also the minimalism touch used into the dial.

The movement is a premium miyota 9039 and the shape of the case looks very classic but with a modern touch thanks to the dial details.

The logo on the back of the case looks cool instead of showing only the naked movement (like a lot of other brands) I think it is a good idea.

Also the mesh bracelet looks solid and very elegant!

Why Buy?

As you know I always want to talk about new people and watch lovers that are starting their own company, brand, timepiece and this is not easy.

But in Edouard I saw a lot of effort and passion, starting from the good idea and concept of the watch to the organisation of the campaign, with very professional materials and info.

When you are starting to believe into a new project you have to consider of course the quality and concept of the watch but also the professionality of the person, for me one of the first thing which helps the potential customers to have more trust.

So for me is a yes, for the price you get a good watch and helping a new microbrand to start the journey!

I hope also to have Manime in the MIcrobrands Book 2023.

Manime contacts

Site https://www.manime-watches.com/

La F. will be available at a special pre-order price on Manime website.

Early birds: 339 EUR / USD with free shipping – For the preorders
Retail Price: 399 EUR / USD – After launching period

Here you can find also the timeline of the watch production.

Matte Works Watches Microbrand

In primo piano

Matte Works Watches are now live on Kickstarter!

I am very happy to let you know about this very new and super cool microbrand called Matte Works this is also the very first microbrand I know which makes watches powered by full solar energy!

The first solar watch collection is called Solution-01 and features solar-powered watches with unique dial designs, innovative hardware designs and interchangeable straps for different occasions.

Inspired from the sci-fi-like landscape of the solar power plants, the collection encapsulates the beauty of solar energy into the design.

The Solution-01 Collection includes 2 different color dial versions (Black & White), 2 colors of leather straps (Black & Chestnut) and 2 colors of nylon straps (Black & Pine).

Matte Works – Solution 01 and Solar energy

How does a solar energy watch works?

A solar watch is a watch driven by converting natural or artificial light into electrical energy.

Light energy received by the solar cell, a solar panel unit under the dial, is converted into electrical energy.

The energy is stored in the rechargeable secondary battery and is used to drive the watch.

Unlike disposable batteries that are used in traditional quartz watches, the rechargeable battery can be recharged thousands of times before replacement is required.

In an era when there is a greater emphasis on environmental change, solar watches are more environmentally friendly than their quartz counterparts, as they have significantly longer battery change intervals than quartz watches.

Solution 01 Design

Of course the design of this very cool timepiece is based on the solar panel (dial).

The solar panel features a patterned translucent dial (black version), which is inspired by the arrangement of the heliostat mirror of a Concentrated Solar Power (CSP) energy plant. 

The heliostat mirror is a critical component of a concentrated solar power system. It is responsible for tracking the sun and redirecting the beam of sunlight onto the target receiver.

The beauty happens from the accurately calculated heliostat pattern, resulting in a futuristic, sci-fi like landscape.

Over the solar panel, all hour positions are marked with minutes and hours markers for legibility. Brushed pencil hands filled with luminous ensure a clear display of time in a low-light environment.

This watch has very good size thanks to the 40 mm case and 9.7 mm thick, the watch is made by 316L Stainless Steel with a brushed finish.

Very minimalistic look (which i really like) and very good durability thanks to the scratch resistant sapphire-coated crystal.

There are aviailable also 2 kind of straps, leather and nato straps, both with very high quality.

Matte Works Solution 01 – Why buy?

As you can see this timepiece and new microbrand has a strong connection with enviroment and I think that today this is a very important topic and also a negative point for quartz watches.

The watch looks cool, innovative, minimalistic and you never need a battery change on your watch.

The concept of the watch and innovative idea to use the solar system for a microbrand watch is a good starting point for this company and I hope to see them into the Microbrands Book 2023.

Click here to join their kickstarter campaign!

WatchPillar

In primo piano

I just discovered on Instagram a nice and interesting German brand called “WatchPillar” specialized into wooden watch accessories.

As you know I always want to discover something special to talk about here on my blog and when first saw this product I said “What? Let me check it!”

I understoodd immediatley that it was a watch stand but WatchPillar is based on a luxurious and handmade idea totally different from the standards or classic well-made watchstands.

First of all when you see a product like this you understand that % of wood used is really important and this makes you feel something “alive” and really important, the purpose is to admire your watch!

Another important aspect of the WatchPillar is the glass dome and this is the first time I see something like this that could be fitted into your house, making your watch much more admirable.

WatchPillar – the project

Everything started from Alexander (the inventor) because he looked for a way to highlight, admire and honour his watches while storing them safely. 

After Alexander talked with his two colleagues Steffen (product design and make) and Salome (marketing) they decided to create a true brand and make it a protected trademark: name, logo and design.

Everything started from the letter…P and they worked from there, on the brand name and the design of the watch stand as well as the logo.

Of course as you can see from photos and understand from the brand name, the pillar is used as inspiration for design of this incredible product and logo derived from appearance of the pillar.

The wood is not lacquered and thus isolated from the user, but the material is ‘alive’, the touch and feel of the wood’s structure is soft and smooth by using oil & wax.

WatchPillar – Why Buy?

There are a lot of details and there is a clear striving for perfection (we are talking about German guys).

The WatchPillar is the perfect stand to admire your timepiece and to have a very cool design object in your house. It emphasises your timepiece, not itself and it does not distract from the watch with a vast support part.

First of all despite it may seem like a classic watch stand it has so many details and here are my favourite ones:

  • The Dome

It protects the watch and acts as a closure and round optical counterbalance against the rectangular main plate

  • Pointy corner and compact version

Precisely pre-machined dowel pin holes allow for a 45° rotation of the insert inside the base and this results in a different, slightly more daring look:

  • Screw in rubber pads

Instead of using cheap and unevenly mounted DIY store pads under the WatchPillar®, they molded the screw-in rubber pads on their own by partially sinking a screw, head first, levitating into a negative form that is subsequently filled with rubber.

This will make the customer better understand that we are talking about real ingenuity and of course time-consuming handcraft.

  • Possibility to choose/customize your WatchPillar

There are 2 signature variants of the WatchPillar, the dark and the bright one.

Additionally, the individual version can be configured with different color combinations and no or individual logo milled into the wood of the round base insert.

All of them use noble walnut and maple wood that is crafted from literally a trunk up to the delicate and fine result.

You can check it here.

Here you can see the dimensions:

Standard version

  • Width:   19 cm (7.5 in)
  • Length: 19 cm (7.5 in)
  • Height: 22 cm (8.7 in)
  • Height without dome: 17 cm (6.7 in)
  • Weight: 1.3 kg (2.87 lb)

Compact version

  • Diameter: 14.3 cm (5.6 in)
  • Height:      16.0 cm (6.3 in)
  • Weight: 0.3 kg (0.66 lb)

There is also the possibility to customize your WatchPillar with your logo creating a very cool 3D effect thanks to 0.9 mm cutter tool and then filled with clear resin by hand, subsequent polish and oil/wax.

  • The treatment of the wood

The wood is hand-polished with ultra-fine grain and then treated with a dedicated 2-step system of bio-certified oil and wax made in Germany.

The resulting surface is silky smooth and a joy to touch and feel. As a plus, all substances have certified food quality.

Another interesting thing is the angle of the rod giving nice viewing angle and also that rod being the only visible metal element that holds the support part in place  and formed like semi circle is aesthetically pleasing, geometrically perfect but at the same time still practical to avoid contact with the watch / bracelet. 

You can also order single parts of the WatchPillar and re-configure it as it is not glued but fully de-mountable as shown below.

Another important thing is that WatchPillar provides a pair of WatchPillar-branded gloves, which can be used to lift and clean the glass dome.

My finally impression is that we are talking about a very interesting project made by truly passionate people and the cost (less than 500€) is absolutely congruent with the ratio quality/price.

If you want to order your WatchPillar check out their site here!

Fran Bross Watches – the summer choice

In primo piano

Today I want to talk about watches, colors and life, keeping a distance from timepieces and aspects I usually talk about on my blog.

I think is important to give visibility not only to classic brands and classic microbrands but also to young people that are trying to enter step by step into the real world of horology maybe starting from a passion or starting from an idea.

This is the reason why sometimes I want to write about maybe at first glance simple quartz watches but that has behind a very good idea.

I am talking today about Fran Bross watches, a brand created by Jorge Franco, a super young man, only 20 years old from Madrid, Spain!

Jorge was passionate about watches and menswear and he decided in his placement year (third year of University) to start his own watch brand instead of taking the placement in a company. 

I talked with Jorge and I understand that my story was really similar to him after he said this on his choise

“I felt it was the moment and if you really want something you need to go for it, always having in mind and being conscious that both bad things and bumps may appear. stay patient, trust your journey, do what you really have passion for and most importantly believe in yourself.”

As I am a 28 years guy and I decided on 2022 to quit my job to dedicate 100% of my time on watches I was very impressed when I saw that a 20 yrs old guy immediatly after finishing the University was trying to create a new brand!

Now let’s talk about the watches

Fran Bross watches are super colored timepieces (from the inner bezel to the straps) basically very simple quartz movement based and are based on 38mm diameter Japanese Seiko movement watch composed of a black and matte grey stainless steel case.

Remember that we are talking about very basic and simple 64€ watches, so they are made just to have fun and to enjoy in a super easy way.

With the word MEMENTO MORI (Remember that you will die) in latin engraved on the watch face, Fran Bross wants that every time you look at the time you remember the meaning and take advantage of the time.

Don’t  be left with the desire for something, that there is only one life.

The watch comes with 2 types of straps (the 2 included), a nato and adjustable elastic strap to choose from 8 colors.

Each watch is characterized by a different coloured bezel and second hand.

The elastic strap can be taken off very easily without unbuckling the strap can be wear in top of clothes without any problem. 

The packaging is simple but really cool for a 64€ watch. As I said you will find the 2 straps and the watch with guaranty card.

Why Fran Bross?

We are talking about a very low budget watch, super funny and perfect for any color match and perfect (in my opinion) for summer or some very funny moments.

In addiction to this, I think is a basic but super interesting little man made by a brave young man!

The NOMOS Ahoi watch swims with a scientist from the Alps to the North Sea

In primo piano

NOMOS Ahoi Atlantico and scientist and extreme swimmer Joseph Heß. Together, they just swam from the Alps to the North Sea, along the entire course of the Rhine, and did it in record time.

Ahoi Atlantic date display by NOMOS Glashütte. After wearing it in the water for 1,235 kilometres, the swimmer says: “For me, the key factors were comfort and weight. Even after more than twelve hours in the Rhine, the watch was still pleasant to wear. And when you emerge from the Rhine, exhausted, the Glashütte watch doesn’t go unnoticed”.

Joseph Heß and Nomos Ahoi – the project

The project that Heß is swimming for is Swim4Science, the aim of which is to make various projects and research from German colleges and universities accessible to the public.

For example, those on water quality. According to researchers, the river is a mirror of the people who live on its banks.

The water reveals whether pesticides are used in the fields and what drugs are taken by the inhabitants.

Issues of physical exertion and how to cope with stressful situations were also analysed during the trip.

Heß did not see much of the river bank: ‘It is a lonely sport because you cannot hear or see anything.

Ship traffic, cold, heat, enormous calorie consumption, faulty support boats and currents were some of the challenges the man, originally from Chemnitz, had to face. However, Heß and his NOMOS watch were not the first to swim along the Rhine.

In 1969, Klaus Pechstein conquered the river by swimming in 30 days.

Simple and elegant, and it even swims in the Rhine: Ahoi neomatik Atlantic from NOMOS Glashütte.

Neomatik stands for the new generation of NOMOS watch movements. And, of course, the watch is also ideal for meetings and appointments.

Strong caseback: the elegantly flat neomatik calibre from the NOMOS Glashütte manufacture is powerful and highly accurate. One can observe its fascinating movement through the sapphire glass back.

The watch’s characteristic protected crown is also clearly visible.

Microbrands Book – Il libro dei Microbrand

In primo piano

Finalmente è disponibile su Amazon il Microbrands Book , il primo libro di orologi dedicato ai Microbrand!

Il Microbrands Book è interamente in inglese e con tanti produttori provenienti da tutto il mondo!

Il libro è stato realizzato durante i miei 6 mesi a Dakar dopo aver deciso di fare un passo importante nella mia vita, credendo in questo progetto e lasciando il mio lavoro nell’editoria per dedicarmi al 100% al mondo degli orologi.

È frutto di un lavoro abnorme.

Centinaia di foto e migliaia di informazioni, potete solo capire cosa voglia dire provare a riordinare il tutto e metterlo insieme in quello che è il primo libro dedicato ai piccoli produttori di orologi (chiamati microbrand) provenienti da tutto il mondo.

Microbrands Book – com’è strutturato

Il libro al suo interno contiene quasi 50 produttori di orologi e ogni microbrand ha 4 pagine.

In queste 4 pagine (totalmente in inglese, essendo distribuito in tutto il mondo) viene presentato il brand con le info principali sui prezzi, anno di fondazione, tipologia di orologi ecc. e vengono anche inseriti i modelli del momento/principali con tutte le caratteristiche.

Infine viene inserito il mio commento “Why Buy?” con una mia opinione.

Il Microbrands Book verrà pubblicato ogni anno con una nuova edizione e nuovi modelli/marchi.

Ho deciso di realizzare questo libro perché penso che sia arrivato il momento di dare più importanza a questo ambito dell’orologeria, da sempre rimasto nell’ombra.

Questa è la prima edizione e prevedo di pubblicare ogni anno una nuova edizione con nuovi orologi, sempre aggiornati e tantissime novità!

Potete trovare qui di seguito il link al libro su Amazon!

Il libro è anche reperibile sul sito Mondadori e Feltrinelli e presto su Amazon mondo.

Il microbrands book è stato anche recensito e consigliato dal famoso youtuber di orologi Marco Bracca come potete vedere nel video qui di seguito!

Se penso che tutto sia partito da questo sito e dalla mia pagina instagram mrwatch93 mi sembra pazzesco dove sia riuscito ad arrivare realizzando questo libro!

Insomma se siete appassionati di orologi e di microbrand penso che questo libro faccia al caso vostro!

Locke & King

In primo piano

Locke & King is a new microbrand founded in 2020 and based in Hamilton, the industrial capital of Canada.

Based on a very elegant but at the same time very versatile style, all their watches are perfect for an every day routine.

The timepieces are named by Canadian streets and cities and the are 2 models in the collection right now.

The James and The Ossington.

Locke & King – The James

James Street in Hamilton, Ontario is defined by Lake Ontario in the north and the Niagara escarpment in the south. It has the heritage of being an entry point for newcomers to Canada.

Matte Black

Design is inspired by the heritage of railroad watches, with a hint of field watch, for their connection to the history of the street.

Silver

There are three colour options: copper, silver, matte black.

Copper

Specifications

  • Three Styles: Silver/Cream, Copper/Midnight Blue, Matte Black
  • Size: 42mm
  • Thickness: 12.4mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal Domed
  • Movement: Miyota Automatic
  • Case: Two-halves, affixed with screws, 316L Stainless Steel
  • Water Resistant: 5ATM
  • Crown: Screw Down
  • Swiss luminous detail on hands
  • Molded case back with unique serial number on each watch
  • Red-tipped second hand referencing the needle on a compass, indicating Northern Time

Locke & King – The Ossington

Ossington has historically been an undersung but effortlessly cool Toronto street.

Originally established as a military route by colonial settlers, Ossington has grown from those early days, through industrial times and challenging periods in the late 20th century, to now one of exciting experimentation and taste-making.

Ossington has emerged as a vibrant centre of culture, cuisine, entrepreneurs, and nightlife.

One of the most physically fascinating aspects of Ossington, particularly along its “main-drag,” is that unlike the rest of Toronto, it has remained largely, architecturally untouched for the past 70 years.

Drawing from these mid-century building styles, and combining with the effortlessly cool character of the modern street, Locke & King went in a minimal dress watch direction with heavy Bauhaus design influences.

Classic Silver & White

There are three colour options: Copper & “Oxidized” Blue, Classic Silver & White, Smoked Steel with “Silver Lining”.

Copper & “Oxidized” Blue

Specifications

  • Three Styles:
  • Silver/White
  • Copper/Oxidized Blue
  • Smoked Steel/ Grey with “Silver Lining”
  • Size: 40mm
  • Thickness: 11.4mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal Domed
  • Movement: Miyota 9015 Automatic Mechanical
  • Case: Two-halves, affixed with screws, 316L Stainless Steel
  • Water Resistant: 10ATM
  • Crown: Screw Down
  • Dial: Concave with Guilloche Decoration
  • Molded case back with unique serial number on each watch
  • Red-tipped second hand referencing the needle on a compass, indicating Northern Time

Why Buy?

These watches are vey cool and you can use it every day for different situations.

Personally I really like the James model. You can clearly see the minimalism in these watches and for the prices I think that Locke & King have done a good work.

Finally a very unique design and very far away from the classic microbrand watches you see every day!

If you like these watches check out their site here!

Interstellar Watches

In primo piano

Today I am very proud to present you a new watch that is just funded on Kickstarter and supported by NASA, this timepiece is very special because of the connection with space!

I am talking about Interstellar Watches!

INTERSTELLAR introduces the RED3,721 Collection, approved by NASA.

RED3,721 is an extraordinary timepiece assembled and supported by Col&MacArthur.

This microbrand commemorates NASA’s Mars 2020 mission with the RED3,721.

INTERSTELLAR focuses on the conquest of space, commemorates important spatial events, and preserves knowledge of the physics of the Universe.

This project sheds light on the discoveries of space, the Universe, and the experience it procures.

It makes you part of the history and its exploration by highlighting humanity’s heritage and the preservation of its knowledge.

All in all, INTERSTELLAR gives you the feeling of traveling through space with a celestial object on your wrist while discovering human great achievements.

Interstellar watches – mars powder on the wrist

INTERSTELLAR is in collaboration with The Meteoritical Society, the International Society for Meteorites and Planetary Science.

Thanks to them, you will be able to trace the history, the origin, and the technical specifications of the meteorite you wear on your wrist.

This Martian meteorite was discovered in 2021 in northwest Africa and supplied by the company MSG meteorites.

Most meteorites are named after the place where they were found, in this case his name is “NWA14269”.

A certificate of authenticating the provenance will be delivered with your timepiece. 

Remember that depending on your choice of the watch you can decide to have mars dust or Nasa logo at 3 o clock.

Specifications

Here below all the specifications of the watch

Binary code on the dial

This watch is also caracterized by a binarycode on the dial and an hidden message!

Why buy?

We are not talking about the classic microbrand, this is a very unique and special watch.

In my opinion I would choose the dust version but it is up to you.

For what you will have on the wrist this timepiece is absolutely super cool and the price really good.

Probably the dimension of the case is big but correct for what is inside!

Here you can find the link to their campaign!

Pak Swiss Watches With 3D Configurator

In primo piano

Today I want to present you a watch start-up called Pak Watches based in Courgenay in the Jura region of Switzerland.

This brand has developed a special 3D configurator that allows you to make and customize swiss made mechanical watches from the brand’s website.

This watch brand goes even further in customization by offering customizable engravings on the folding buckles.

Here you can find their site

https://pakwatches.ch/

Pak Watches – The 3D Configurator

The configurator is pretty easy to use and you can have a clear vision of the watch during all the process.

Here is the link to the configurator

https://www.pakwatches.ch/Shop/en/content/1-configurator

You can choose different options, for example, the movement, case, dial, hands, strap, and buckle.

There is also the possibility to engrave the buckle with different font options.

The price of their watches varies between 1’200 EUR and 2’400 EUR.

This is the first time I’m talking about a 3D Configurator and after checking their website I have to say that I’m impressed!

The quality of these watches is very high as we are taling about a Swiss Watch Brand.

There is also the possibility to save a pdf of your configuration or to send it by email,

This is an example of specifications that you can find in Pak watches but of course you can see on the left of the configurator the live evolution of the spefcifications depending of your choices!

– Diameter 42mm

– Thickness 11mm

– Polished steel case

– Navy blue imitation crocodile strap with folding clasp

– Movement 6497 rose gold color

– Power reserve 46H

– 18’000 vibrations per hour

– Water-resistant to 3 ATM

Pak Watches – Why Buy?

  • Swiss Made Watches
  • Good ratio quality/price
  • Cool and easy 3D Configurator
  • Free Shipping
  • Very unique timepieces, never saw something like that

Discovering Sekvens.com

In primo piano

As I always talk and inform watch lovers about new timepieces every day is also really important to keep the community informed about very interesting watch dealers and this is why today I want to present you Sekvens.com, a very cool online shop in Sweden founded by Anders!!

Anders started collecting watches in the early 2000s and in his 20+ years of collecting he has seen the market evolve, the early 2000s was the golden era for watch enthusiasts who dared to shop online.

Also the introduction of “Microbrands” has also changed the market.

For this reason today you can find unique and high qualitative brands that often give you more bang for the buck compared to traditional brands.

Anders will offer a small selection of interesting vintage and pre-owned watches and mircrobrands. Today he’s an authorized dealer for Bertucci field watches and Unimatic watches. More brands will be added in the future.

sekvens.com
sekvens.com

Sekvens is Anders’s way of contributing to the watch community, he will share photos, findings and experiences on social platforms and in the blog (coming soon…).

Anders’s ambition is to source and offer a variety of both new, pre-owned and vintage watches that he finds interesting and have good value and high quality.

Sekvens.com – Why choose it?

The site is really simple to use and there is a free shipping for orders over 200 eur and 14 days return, all the important info are available on the site so you can contact Anders when you want.

I see a lot of transparency and trust on the site, so what you see is what you get. Every watch Anders puts up for sale is meticulously sourced, cleaned, photographed, presented with care by himself.

Details and informations

All the informations of Sekvens are available and super transparency on his site but you can find it also here!

Check out the site here!

https://www.sekvens.com/

Mobile:
+46-762574857

Whatsapp:
+46-762574857

Email:
hello@sekvens.com

Instagram:
sekvens_collection

Location
Malmö, Sweden. By appointment only.

Fledderman von Rieste Microbrand Watches

In primo piano

It’s time to discover new watches on Kickstarter and today I want to present you the microbrand Fledderman von Rieste and their first timepiece!

This campaign will feature The Muncher, a Swiss Made small seconds dial watch and is now available on Kickstarter from today (May 1) for 60 days.

The May start of their campaign positions for delivery of production watches to backers by December of 2022.

The Muncher is a watch inspired by the Bavarian capital with an independent streak as strong as its economic might.

The residents of Munich have long enjoyed a harmonious existence with their surroundings, and take every opportunity to enjoy the natural beauty in and around their city.

The Münchner – discovering the watch

This watch has a 44mm polished medical grade stainless steel case.

Both case sides feature parallel lines representing the twin spires of the Frauenkirche, a defining feature of the old city’s skyline, and a foundation of the city for centuries.

The dial is where The Münchner stands apart from other watches.

The small seconds’ complication at the six o’clock position harkens to Munich’s independent streak.

The framed small seconds sub dial serves as a tribute to the famous city squares where Münchners come together. Like Munich and its residents, this watch does things its own way and on its terms.

This watch is super comfortable and three dial options are available:

Victory BlueCharcoal or Antique Map

The centerpiece small seconds dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal featuring water resistance to 300 feet.

The heart of the Münchner is a Sellita SW260 series automatic self-winding movement, the SW260, born in the heart of Switzerland, features 31 jewels and an impressive 38-hour power reserve making sure you are always the master of your time.

Also the clasp of the watch is very elegant and Fledderman choose a very nice deployant option.

Fledderman von Rieste – Why Buy?

This watch has many features and I have to say that for the price and the movement that this microbrand is offering I totally suggest this timepiece, especially if you like Munich and you like this style of watch.

Despite we re talking about a dress watch, The Muncher is very versatile for different occasions!

Check out their Kickstarter campaign here !

Check out their site here!

https://vonrieste.com/

Specifications:

Movement: Sellita SW260 Series

Bracelet: Cognac Italian Leather (22mm) (Cognac, Black, or Mahogany)

Case: 316 Stainless Steel

Case diameter: 44 mm

Case Thickness: 11 mm

Lug to Lug: 52 mm

Dial color: Victory Blue, Charcoal, or Antique Map

Crystal: Scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 10bar (100 metres / 300feet)

The Project:

Pledge Levels:

Stage One – Early Birds: $550, limit to 50

Stage Two – Almost Early: $650, limit to 100

Stage Three – Not so Early: $750, limit to 150

Stage Four – Everyone Else: $900, no limit

MSRP $999

Timeline:

December 2020 – June 2021 – Product Development

September 2021 – Prototyping

October – December 2021 Testing

December 2021 – Refinements

January 2022 – Design Freeze

May 2022 – Kickstarter Launch

June 2022 – Campaign Closes

July 2022 – Production Begins

November 2022 – Qulaity Control

December 2022 – Packing and Shipping

Clockwork Watch App

In primo piano

Do you know that there is an App called Clockwork that helps you to measure the accuracy of your watches?

Clockwork – Watch App is new mobile app that is made by and for all the watch enthusiasts out there!

Let’s see how it works!

In short it has three main features:

  • it can measure the accuracy of your watches
  • it can safely store information about all your watches
  • you can see super accurate time from an atomic clock!


Measure watch accuracy

Since mechanical watches do not use a battery, they rely on mechanical parts to tell time.

This implies that mechanical watches does not keep time 100% accurately, and that this accuracy is dependent on how much/little the watch has moved, the temperature which the watch has been and of course the movement inside and how well it is calibrated.


Clockwork – Watch App comes with an easy and convenient way to measure the accuracy of your watches.

It lets you take a picture of your timepiece and then ask you to write down the time shown on the image.

It then syncs the image capture time with an atomic clock before we compare it with the time shown on the watch to get an offset.

After waiting a minimum of 12 hours you can do the same again to get a new offset.

Once you have at least two offsets, the app can calculate the differences in these offsets to tell you how many seconds too fast or too slow your watch runs each day!

Taking several measurements over time will thus provide a real-life scenario for how accurate your watch is!


Why should I care to measure the accuracy of my watch?

Finding the accuracy of your watch is interesting on it’s own, but it also has several use cases. 

First of all, it can give you a good indicator for when it is time for a service. If you measure the accuracy regularly, it can ensure you that the watch is in good shape.

A sudden change in accuracy means that something is wrong with the movement and that it is time for a check.Secondly, having proof that the watch is running accurately can increase resell value.

This is especially the case for vintage watches, as accuracy can wary a great deal and service history is often hard to get. If you watch is hard to sell, then having a good accuracy to showcase will definitively help to close the deal with a skeptical buyer.


Other apps can also measure watch accuracy, what makes Clockwork – Watch App different form the rest?

Most other watch measurement apps either listens to the sound from the movement inside your watch or require you press a button when your watch shows a specific time. 


Listening to the sound from the movement of your watch can give you very accurate seconds per day measurements, and additional metrics like beat error and amplitude.

However this either requires the use of a simple microphone, which can give unreliable results, or the use of special third party equipment that is expensive.

Seconds per day is also the only metric you need to worry about for day to day usage.Additionally these apps only give you an accuracy at a single moment in time, while Clockwork – Watch App calculates accuracy as an average over time to give you a real-life scenario for how accurate your watch is.

clockwork watch app


Apps that make you press a button when your watch shows a specific time compares the time of the button tap with a central clock to get an offset.

You then have to do this again some hours later to get a new offset.

The two offsets can be compared and to say how many seconds + or – the watch runs each day. Clockwork – Watch app actually use the same technique, but by registering the time of an image capture and the time shown on the watch to create the offset, instead to timing a button press.

Timing a button press is hard to do precisely within milliseconds and hard to do evenly between measurements.

It it however much easier to set milliseconds off an image, more precisely to use image capture time than button press time. Using images is not only more accurate than relying on you thumb, but also, who doesn’t love taking images of their watches anyway?

Store watch information

In Clockwork – Watch App you can create your digital watch collection! It lets you store relevant and important information about your watches, safely and securely.

Storing information about your watch is important, especially in case of theft or accidents.

In such circumstances it will always help to have information such as reference number and serial number stored in a secure place. 

You can also keep notes on each of your watches to remember things like when and where the watch was bought, dates for services, memorable things that happened with the watch. After all, everybody likes a watch with a good story!

clockwork watch app

Atomic Clock

Clockwork – Watch App is connected to a pool of atomic watch servers through a technology called NTP, which assures extremely accurate time.

Internally, the app uses this watch as the main source of true time, and uses it to calculate the accuracy of your watches correctly and reliably.

You’d be surprise how much the internal clock of your phone differs from this atomic time, so it is really important for accuracy to have one source of truth.

clockwork watch app

The app comes with its own dedicated page to show this atomic clock in both a digital and analog format.

You can use this clock to set the time of your watches as precise as possible!

Additionally, Clockwork – Watch App comes with powerful settings:

  • Setting Dark or Light mode
  • Separate day/date representations
  • Different ways of sorting of your watches, so that you can customize the app to your liking.

Where I can download the app?

Website link:https://clockworkwatchapp.com
Direct link to the app:http://onelink.to/clockworkmrwatch

Overall, the app makes it super easy to measure watch accuracy, and I really recommend it!

The Ugly Watch Co

In primo piano

It is time to discover new watches on Kickstarter and today I just discovered The Ugly Watch Co!

The UGLY Watch Co, has given a facelift to one of the most iconic designs in watchmaking history, the “Sport Watch”.

Not redefined but re-imagined, with four Mother of Pearl Dials to choose from: Classic Black, Pink, Purple and Blue.

The UGLY Watch Co. is paying homage to the golden age of Sport Watch history by re-imagining the well-known classic style and adding a new take on the affordable luxury Sport Watch.

It has a little larger 41mm case than the 36-38mm cases from the 70s and 80s, to satisfy modern tastes that gravitate toward styles with a larger case design while preserving the shapely silhouette inherited from the vintage sport watch style, staying loyal to the original essence.

As a Microbrand watch company, The UGLY Watch Co. promotes the spirit of defying the current status quo and distinguishing their unique Sport Watch look from others on the market today.

These guys share their passion for preserving the history of classic dress, yet casual sport watch while paying homage to classic styles from the past.

At 41mm and 48mm lug to lug with a total thickness of 11.1mm, this case is crafted with meticulous attention to detail. The highly polished fitted Stainless Steel bezel, the brushed finish on the center case body extends to the contoured lugs, ensuring an exceptional fit and finish for the bracelets solid end links.

Finally, the case is finished with high polishing on top and bottom.

First and for most, Mother of Pearl! We love it and wouldn’t have it any other way. 

Mother-of-pearl is the iridescent inside lining of a mollusk shell.  Its an organic substance that gives mother-of-pearl its iridescent effect and distinct beauty.

This multicolored iridescence is caused by the way light reflects on the layers of nacre on the shell.

While continuing to pay attention to detail, we have applied three dimensional highly polished rectangular hour markers at all 12 positions, with a strip of BGW9 SuperLuminova applied to the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock markers as well as a small strip of lume at the end of each hour marker. There is also a simple bordered date window at the 3 o’clock position.

Three dimensional polished logo at 12 and the word AUTOMATIC at the 6 position.  Keeping a minimalist approach allows the iridescence of the Mother of Pearl to take center stage

Super-J Louis bracelet is more than an upgraded version of vintage J  Louis watch bracelet.

All links are composed of solid 316L stainless steel.  

Screw-in adjustable construction instead of pressure pins to keep it solid and stable.  With its 22mm width tapered down to 18mm at the clasp.

This Super-J Louis Jubilee watch bracelet is designing  for diver or sport watches. 

 

The UGLY Watch Co. 100m Sport is sealed with a stainless steel exhibition screw down case back that shows off the ST2130 High Beat Automatic movement with perlage polish on all bridges and Geneva stripes on rotor.

Why Buy?

Despite the name of the company these watches are ubsolutely not ugly and I really like the remind to the vintage old time but with a modern view.

The materials are really good and I think this brand has made an intelligent use of both lume and mother of pearl, creating a very interesting watch to add in your collection!

Where to buy?

Available from today april 22 on Kickstarter for only 289$!

The link is here below!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/laune/100m-sport-mother-of-pearl-dial-sport-watch-automatic/

Here you can find also their site!

https://uglywatchco.com/

Quick Specifications:
    Function : Date, hour, minute, second
    Winding : Automatic
    Frequency : 28,800bph
    Diameter : 26.0mm
    Thickness : 4.6mm

SPECIFICATIONS :

  • Case – 41mm, 316L Stainless Steel 
  • Lug To Lug – 48mm
  • Thickness – 11.1mm
  • Bezel – Stainless Steel
  • Crown – Gasket Screw-In and signed
  • Crystal – Sapphire Crystal
  • Water Resistance – 100 meters (333 feet)
  • Movement – ST2130 High-Beat Automatic Movement (28,000 bph) with perlage Hacking Second, Quick Set Date, Power Reserve approx 48 hours
  • DIAL – Mother of Pearl, 3D Markers with Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9
  • Bracelet & Clasp – 316L Stainless Steel, Solid screw constructed Links with Folding Clasp and three fine adjustment
  • Warranty – 12 Months

SEIKO PRESAGE STYLE 60’s

Seiko Presage “Style 60’s” series is enriched with six new watches, whose design proposes a contemporary reinterpretation of the 1964 Crown Chronograph, which inspired them.

New timepieces capture the vintage atmosphere of the historic Seiko model, considered a milestone in the history of the Manufacture, and combine it with modern elements to create a line with an absolutely contemporary retro touch (The Crown Chronograph was the first wristwatch by Seiko and around Japan equipped with a chronometer function).

All six watches feature the distinctive “box-shaped” glass of the Crown Chronograph, faceted indexes and sharp-shaped hands.

The case with a tapered silhouette is slightly tilted down to ensure better comfort on the wrist. The polished handles add brightness to the whole, in a perfect balance between modern and vintage.

References SSA447J1, SSA449J1 and SSA451J1 propose a dial with a small silver counter at 6 o’clock for the date indication.

Watches, available with a cream, dark green or grey-blue dial, feature a 40.8 mm stainless steel case framed by a steel bezel with black IP treatment.


Waterproof up to 5 bar, the timepieces are completed with the stainless steel bracelet (SSA447J1 and SSA449J1) closed by a triple folding buckle with release button, or the brown leather strap (SSA451J1).


All three watches are powered by the self-winding calibre 4R57, which guarantees a power reserve of 41 hours and is visible from the transparent screw case back.

The SSA453J1 watch, also with a 40.8 mm diameter stainless steel case, features a window at 9 o’clock on the “open heart” dial, allowing you to observe the balance when the watch is on the wrist, while the second counter at 11 o’clock serves as a 24-hour indicator.

The blue dial is framed by the steel bezel with IP treatment of the same color.

Great Waterproof up to 5 bar and powered by the calibre 4R39 automatic with a power reserve of 41 hours visible from the transparent screw case back, the timepiece offers a beige synthetic leather strap with a velvety suede texture.

New Presage Style 60’s series is completed by the SRPH93J1 and SRPH95J1 models, which share the 40.8 mm diameter stainless steel case and the water resistance up to 5 bar.

I really liket these watches offer a date on the dial at 3 o’clock and are available in two versions.

One with silver dial, steel bezel with red IP treatment and stainless steel bracelet closed by a triple folding buckle with release button (SRPH93J1).

The other with black dial, case with black IP treatment and black leather strap (SRPH95J1).

Six timepieces of the Presage Style 60’s series are available from Seiko boutiques and authorized retailers around the world.

SEIKO PRESAGE STYLE 60’S
SSA447J1, SSA449J1, SSA451J1
Caliber 4R57
SSA451J1
SRPH95J1

  • Movement: automatic with manual winding option Frequency: 21,600 alternations/hour (6 oscillations per second) Power reserve: 41 hours
  • Number of rubies: 29
  • Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date indicator by ball, power reserve indicator

Specifications

Stainless Steel Case and Bracelet with Triple Folding Clasp and Release Button (SSA447J1, SSA449J1) Stainless Steel Case and Brown Leather Strap with Pin Buckle (SSA451J1)
Bezel with black IP treatment
Hardlex glass “box-shaped”
Diameter: 40.8 mm Thickness: 14.3mm Waterproof: 5 bar
Transparent screw case back with visible movement Recommended retail price in Italy: €670

Autumn 2022 sees continued success for Christie’s Watches in Hong Kong

This past weekend, Christie’s Hong Kong realised a combined sale total exceeding
HK$ 202 million / US$ 26 million / EUR 25 million, marking the second consecutive year for Christie’s Asia of exceeding an annual sale total of HK$ 500 million (US$ 64 million / EUR 61.9 million) in watch sales.

Enamel dials are reaching new heights of desirability and setting new world records.
The auction saw strong global participation from 40 countries; 55% of new buyers are millennials.

With the successes of The Champion Collection and The Triazza Collection in HK this weekend, and more recently The Legendary & Unique Watches Collection in Geneva,
not to mention The Kairos Collection and The Titanium & Ruby Collection,
Christie’s Watches is clearly established as the auction house for Great Private Watch Collections around the globe. Worldwide hubs and long-established networks place it
in the unique position to curate and orchestrate major auctions for high-calibre owners.

Important Watches featuring The Triazza Collection, Part I

Sale total: HK$ 121,822,260 / US$ 15.6 million / EUR 15.1 million

The Champion Collection, Part VI: The Finest Watchmaking

131% above estimate – sale total: HK$ 80,356,741 / US$ 10.3 million / EUR 9.9 million

Alexandre Bigler, Vice President and Head of Watches, Christie’s Asia Pa- cific, said: “When it comes to important high-calibre private watch collec- tions, the deep and broad expertise of Christie’s in showcasing and selling amazing collections is the determining factor. This position is owed to the long-term vision and to the trust the team at Christies Watches has built with high-calibre owners around the world. We are also thrilled about the success of the Triazza Collection, 100% sold; yet again we saw how vintage watches coming to market create excitement and hold a particular fascination for passionate collectors.

The impressive results achieved by Métiers d’Art’ pieces that elevate a craft

to the level of art, especially that of enamelling, testify to the growing de- sirability of timepieces that uniquely combine mechanical perfection and sublime artistry. Also, the two world records set by Patek Philippe, with the Ref. 5208P-001 minute repeater perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum fetching more than HK$ 10 million (US$ 1.2 million / EUR 1.2 million) as the top lot of the sale, and the Ref. 5073P-001, a minute repeater perpetual calendar set with baguette- cut diamonds achieving over HK$ 13.6 million (close to US 1.3 million /close to EUR 1.7 million). While our epic journey with the Champion Collection is reaching its finale, there is still a final chance to bid on

exceptional pieces in the online sale open until 7 December at Christie’s x PANERAI: Watches Online.”

The Champion Collection is a testament to the determination and dedication it takes to bring pieces to- gether and curate them into a living entity, always evolving and growing to reflect the personality of its owner. Here are the world record-breaking results and highlights from The Champion Collection, Part VI:

Here is a selection of the sale highlights from Important Watches featuring The Triazza Collection, Part I. All 218 lots offered at auction were sold.

Christie’s Hong Kong Triazza Collection Live Auction 2022

Christie’s auction offers a total of over 200 watches, with a selection of highly desirable timekeepers, both modern and vintage. Renowned Maisons such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Jaeger- LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne will be represented in this Live Sale, including noteworthy creations by F.P. Journe, among them an exceptional T-30.

Christie’s – The Triazza Collection, Part I

Patek Philippe collectors no doubt have the particular watch in mind that would make their collection perfect, and their dream may come true with this auction.

The Triazza Collection is an incredible grouping that is not only a testament to the taste and discernment of its present owner, but also one in which each individual watch has been carefully chosen for its rarity, condition, beauty and provenance.

Lot 2523 – Esmond Bradley Martin Ref. 605 HU cloisonné dial ‘North America’, manufactured in 1950.
This exemplary Patek Philippe reference 605 HU (Heure Universelle) World Time dress watch with cloisonné enamel ‘North America’ dial is one of only a handful of these sublimely beautiful horological masterpieces to ever have come to market.

It brings with it a wonderful and impeccable provenance, its first owner was one of the great American watch collectors of the 20th century, Esmond Bradley Martin, who purchased this watch from Tiffany & Co. in New York in December 1957. For the past decade, it has been a highlight of an important private watch collection.

From 1939 to 1964 Louis Cottier and Patek Philippe produced up to 95 pieces of the reference 605 HU, of which 68 were in yellow gold and 27 in pink gold. Reference 605 HU was available with a plain metal dial or a unique cloisonné enamel dial.

The latter could depict individual continents, hemispheres or even the entire planet. This reference was one of the earliest to use Louis Cottier’s world time system and each watch was made under Cottier’s direct supervision to ensure that the world time mechanism operated flawlessly, even after it was cased.

Patek Philippe’s cloisonné dial wristwatches are always among the rarest and most exclusive watches of any reference.

Today, only around 12 surviving examples of reference 605 HU are known with cloisonné dials, however only four, including the present watch, were decorated with the map of North America.

(Est: HK$7,000,000-14,000,000)

Lot 2522 – Geneva Observatory 1st Prize tourbillon, manufactured in 1924.
This important and large-size Geneva Observatory 1st Prize winning tourbillon is not only in exceptional condition and one of the finest high-precision Patek Philippe watches, it is also possibly unique in retaining both its original gold case and white enamel Breguet numeral dial and, in addition, its original antimagnetic observatory contest case and original contest silver sector dial.

To the best of our knowledge, no other Patek Philippe observatory chronometer in private hands is known to be in existence with both cases and both dials surviving intact.

According to the Geneva Observatory records, the present movement was awarded a First Prize at the Timing Contest of 1931 with 782 points out of a possible 1000.

This chronometer was the 13th out of the 50 classified among more than 600. The first in the trial gained 856 and the last 604, 58 chronometers were entered for the contest. The tourbillon carriage was made by James

Pellaton and the watch was adjusted by master adjuster Jules Golay-Audemars. As is common to all Patek Philippe movements made for observatory testing, the present watch it is engraved twice with the movement number.

The inscription “Extra” on the bridge of the movement refers to the very high finishing of all the parts of the movement.

This watch achieved chronometer standard as attested to by the stamping of the movement with the Seal of Geneva (twice).

Patek Philippe’s early 20th century tourbillon watches for the Observatory Contest are by their very nature among the very best precision timepieces ever made. Their prime purpose was to win prizes and accolades at the Observatory timing contests.

The prestige conferred by obtaining consistent Observatory awards was considerable; as a result, the company’s proven track record in making and adjusting watches to extremely fine tolerances resulted in greater commercial success for the brand as a whole. (Est: HK$5,500,000 – 11,000,000)

Lot 2520 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5004J-017. An almost certainly unique yellow gold split seconds chronograph perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indications, with a Certificate of Origin- confirmed stunning black monogram dial, luminous indexes and luminous hands and white tachymeter scale, made as a bespoke commission for the remarkable American collector Michael Ovitz. Circa 2011.

(Est: HK$5,000,000 – 10,000,000)

Lot 2521 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 Heures Universelles. A superb and very rare 18k gold world time wristwatch, with ‘short’ signature, manufactured in 1948.

Only 82 pieces were made in yellow gold, and less than 20 pieces in yellow gold examples with ‘short’ signature.

(Est: HK$1,500,000-3,000,000)

Lot 2519 – Patek Philippe Ref. 5073P-001. An extremely rare and magnificent diamond-set platinum automatic “Cathedral” minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, 24-hour and leap year indication. On the bezel: baguette-cut diamonds. Circa 2014.

(Est: HK$11,000,000 – 18,000,000)

Lot 2414 – F.P. Journe 30th Anniversary Tourbillon, limited edition of 99 pieces. A rare 18k rose gold and silver limited edition tourbillon wristwatch to celebrate thirty years since the founding of the F.P. Journe watchmaking Manufacture. Circa 2014.

(Est: HK$2,400,000 – 4,800,000)

Lot 2413 – F.P. Journe lineSport Automatique Reserve, 18k pink gold automatic wristwatch with date, power reserve, day/night indication and bracelet. Circa 2021.
(Est: HK$800,000 – 1,600,000)

Lot 2409 – F.P. Journe Élégante 40 titanium, an attractive lady’s ceramic and diamond-set titanium wristwatch. Circa 2021.
(Est: HK$180,000 – 280,000)

Lot 2410 – F.P. Journe Élégante 40 platinum, an attractive lady’s diamond and sapphire-set platinum wristwatch. Circa 2021.
(Est: HK$350,000 – 700,000)